Many years ago when I first entered the jewelry industry I thought I had received a sizable windfall. My mother had given me a 2 ct ruby ring which she had received from her brother in the early 1940’s. It was mounted in silver. I had just started my career in the jewelry industry and as such had access to a machine that could determine the type of stone by its refractive index. I tested several times and it repeatedly recorded that it was a ruby.

I wanted to know what it was worth knowing that in the past rubies were inexpensive but in the ensuing years rubies had appreciated substantially in value. I took it to a gemologist for an assessment. When the gemologist saw it she exclaimed that I may have a small fortune in hand, if it was real. I told her I had already tested it and it was real. She proceeded to explain that it could be a synthetic ruby, one that is created in the laboratory. I had heard of synthetic gemstones but I had assumed that they were only recently produced. I was to learn that they were already making synthetic gemstones in the early 20th century, the first successful synthesis in the late 1800’s.

She placed my ring under the microscope and proceeded to say “I am sorry this is a synthetic ruby”. My bubble was burst. I asked what she was looking for. She said that when a gemstone is grown in a laboratory the process of crystallization is hastened and in the process creates curved striations, much like the rings of a tree which are visible under the microscope. A natural genuine ruby takes nature a lot longer to produce and it will exhibit straight striations.

We have seen a lot of colored gemstones that people have inherited and found that a substantial number of the jewelry brought in was synthetic.


As previously mentioned, the creation of synthetic gemstones began in the late 1800’s and commercially produced by the early 1900’s. The synthetic gemstones produced commercially are alexandrite, emerald, ruby, sapphire, garnet, amethyst, quartz, spinel, lapis lazuli, turquoise and diamond.

Lab grown synthetic gemstones have the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the natural material. Traditional testing, of refractive index and the density of the gemstone are of little use in determining the differences. A microscope is used to study the imperfections, curved striations, flux inclusions, triangular metallic platelets  or gas bubbles to determine the method of growth and in turn its synthetic nature. A synthetic diamond requires specialized and sophisticated equipment to determine it synthetic status.


The value of synthetic gemstones is not as much as a genuine natural one of the same quality because it can be made in unlimited quantities. If you are considering purchasing a gemstone and you are concerned that it may not be genuine natural there are some labels that will help to indicate if it is synthetic. A few key words for synthetics are, “Lab Created”, “Lab Grown”, “Chatham” (brand name). A reputable store will disclose whether it is synthetic or not.

Synthetics are beautiful gemstones and taken in the right context, have a definite place in the jewelry industry. The ability to control the growth of the gemstone in the laboratory makes synthetics look like higher quality stones without the higher price. You can have a beautiful piece of jewelry using a synthetic and not have paid as much as a genuine gemstone of the same quality. If synthetics gemstones peaks your interest, by all means look into it.  Appreciation is in the eye of the beholder and these gemstones are beautiful. Enjoy them for what they are.


Mahalo,
Russell Oshita
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Our website: www.thediamondspecialistsinc.com
Email me: russell@thediamondspecialists.com
Email me:inquiries@thediamondspecialists.com
Our romantic love story blog: www.SweetMomentsRomance.com
Our jewelry information and advice blog: www.Jewelry411Help.com

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