Shokudo and town Main Entrances
The dynamic nature of the restaurant business is one of the things that fascinates me - restaurants open, evolve and close at a dizzying pace. Here in Honolulu, these changes sometimes seem larger than life, given our relatively small community and limited physical space. And, the changes are not limited to the physical aspects of restaurants, but also to cuisine. As staid as some aspects of our cuisine culture may seem, there has been an undercurrent of change simmering for some time now. At the forefront of this evolution are younger chefs and restaurateurs with big ideas and ambitions. This month we look at two such spots which differ from one another in almost every aspect except for the desire to provide diners with outstanding food and a superior dining experience. Another thing they have in common is they both won the "Best New Restaurant" 2006 Hale Aina Award.
SHOKUDO
The Pork, Eggplant & Miso Pizza sounds bizarre but it tasted really good. Shokudo's version of Chanko-Naba aka Sumo Wrestlers' Stew is excellent and you cook it at your table.
Shokudo, more properly known as Japanese Restaurant & Bar Shokudo, is a spot whose owners have huge ambitions - the company is named Dream Dining Corporation. They are planning big and working towards the dream of taking their modern Japanese bistro concept nationwide during the next 10 years. Honolulu is their chosen testing ground and we should count ourselves fortunate to be part of this adventure into the future of neo-Asian-American food.
The décor of Shokudo adds to the appeal of the dining experience. The tiered dining area is very popular and reservations are a good idea if you want to sit there.
The social and visual aspects of dining are important factors of Shokudo's concept. The space is designed to facilitate an easy flow of food, drink and conversation whether there are just two people at a table or a dozen. They hired famed Japanese design guru, Yasumichi Morita, to execute the ultra-modern look that has a retro-feel. I like to describe it as where Harrison Ford would have dined in Blade Runner if that movie had been a G-rated Disney flick.
Shokudo features a well stocked bar and one of their favorite offerings are premium sakes presented in wooden boxes on a bed of shave ice. Desserts are larger than life as seen in this Honey Toast with Ice Cream.
Since this review of Shokudo a couple of months ago, I have returned for two very enjoyable meals, both of them with large groups. I cannot speak highly enough of the excellent service, fun food and overall pleasure that Shokudo offers to diners. Both groups had nothing but praise for the experience, enjoying the food, drinks and atmosphere. Favorite dishes included Pork & Eggplant Miso Pizza, freshly made Tofu, Deep Fried Flounder and Chanko Nabe.
Read the Shokudo Review
TOWN
town is located on the corner of 9th Avenue and Waialae Avenue in Kaimuki. Outdoor seating is an option and dogs are welcome to join their human companions on the patio.
Much less ambitious in terms of size but with no lack of big ideas is Kaimuki restaurant, town (spelled intentionally in lowercase). The owners of town have a clearly stated philosophy of "local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha always" which puts them on the hot seat when it comes to execution on a day-to-day basis. Living the philosophy is a journey in itself and there are detours, adjustments and reality checks along the way. The good news is that we get to come along and eat from a menu that changes daily.
The chefs of town have mastered the art of frying food without making it greasy. Housemade French Fries are accompanied by savory deep fried herbs. Salt Cod Fritters Brandade with a Malt Vinegar Mayo were perfect.
The physical space is minimalist with concrete floors, stainless steel table tops and large spherical lamps by local designer Mark Chai, who specializes in functional art created from cast-off materials. In the evenings the reserved tables are designated with luminaries he created with whimsical phrases like 'town gossip' and 'town vixen' cut out and glowing from the candles within. All of the hard surfaces make for a space that is super-live and the noise volume increases steadily as the place gets busy, so be prepared to holler across a table for two.
The menu changes daily but two recent choices were Mahi Mahi with assorted locally grown vegetables in a Meyer Lemon Caper Butter Sauce and Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with Soft Polenta
The flavors here are predominately Mediterranean with pastas, slow roasted meats and an abundance of fresh herbs. You'll find that the most reliable dishes are often the simplest ones - like the perfect french fries with deep fried herbs or slow roasted pork shoulder with creamy soft polenta and a side of bitter greens sauteed with garlic, golden raisins and pine nuts. Helming the kitchen are a pair of talented chefs, Ed Kenney (who is also the owner) and Dave Caldiero. They both understand that excellent ingredients don't need a lot of dressing up to be delicious. The food almost always works, though the service can be spotty. If you love freshly prepared food, town is well worth a visit.
Read the town Review
