The décor is full of thoughtful touches which enhance Du Van's French charm.

There is no denying the appeal of this wine bar/brasserie, which is the latest concept to spring from the fertile mind of restaurateur Dave Stewart who is also responsible for Bar 35 and the famed Indigo. His sense of style and ability to understand what people crave in a restaurant and bar must have been running in hyper-drive when he dreamed Du Vin (pronounced "do van") to life. The French-inspired decor runs right up to the edge of camp and pulls back just enough to ensure that you don't giggle at the various tableaus created in the three distinctly different areas of the space. Which of these spaces you prefer may well be determined by a specific mood or occasion.

The old-fashioned wooden bar with a copper top dominates the main area.

When you walk through the door from Bethel Street into the main area, it is like stepping through a worm hole into a parallel universe. Here the light is a bit dimmer, the air cooler and each step you take on the dark wooden planks carries you away from Honolulu into Dave's idea of a French brasserie. The main area is dominated by a large wooden bar without stools which runs nearly the length of the room. It's the old fashioned kind with a foot rail that you prop up against - how much you have to prop yourself will, of course, depend on how much you've imbibed - but I digress. There are also tables of two sizes, very small and very large. Chairs are an eclectic mix of wood and cane. This is a place to gather, drink, eat and people watch.

The courtyard is particularly pleasant in the evenings.

Those who want to enjoy the sunlight, or moonlight, and the undeniable pleasures of dining outside will make a beeline for the courtyard, which can be spotted in the distance as you enter Du Vin. Just keep walking towards the light. Designed to evoke the feeling of a backstreet cafe in Provence, with the proper set decorations this space could also be a Moroccan souk, a street in old Mexico or a backwater planet café on the much-missed (at least by me) sci-fi series Firefly. In the evening this spot is particularly pleasant.

This intimate pub-like area is filled with French collectibles and memorabilia.

Walk through the courtyard and turn into the doorway at the end on the right and you'll be in a French country pub all awash in warm butter with accents of deep French blue and heavily distressed wooden floors. Why there is M. Thiebaut's walking cane leaning against the wall while his scarf and hat are hanging on the rack - you'll see what I mean about the almost campy decor, but it is the thoughtfulness of the items that elevates it to charming. The smallest of the three spaces, this one is also the only area that is air conditioned - a necessary but nonetheless somewhat jarring concession to reality. This wooden bar has stools for sitting and is curved so it fits snugly into the back of the room, leaving space for small tables perfect for an intimate conversation with your amour or conspiring with colleagues.

The chalkboard at the entrance lists the daily specials - they nicely round out the simple menu of French classics.

So, how is the food and wine? One gets the feeling that Mr. Stewart only grudgingly decided that he needed to offer food. I'm sure that if he felt the patrons would be happy, he'd only serve adult beverages. But, where there is wine, there must be food and in this regard he did not fail. It may have been grudging, but the simple menu supplemented by daily specials and choices of cured meats and artisan cheeses is more than sufficient.

Orders of artisan cheeses and cured meats are served on wooden planks with traditional accompaniments.

The chef, Scott Nelson, hails from New Orleans and was most recently with Ruth's Chris on Maui and prior to that at the now-closed Cafe Monsarrat. His background is in French food and it shows in the menu: tarte nicoise ($11), quiche ($11) and pomme frites ($4). Start with a baguette accompanied by olive oil & balsamic vinegar ($4), select one of the cheeses, the 1 oz portion is accompanied by fresh and dried fruits and nuts ($4); I suggest the gorgonzola dulce. Then add one of the cured meats, also served in 1 oz portions which includes lightly-dressed mesclun greens and pickled vegetables ($4). This will get you off to a good start while you determine whether you want to simply nibble or order something more substantial.

The French onion soup is prepared in the classic manner with onions in a rich broth topped by crusty bread and lots of cheese,

And the wine. Let us just say that the pricing of the wine is such that it will deter certain, shall we say, elements in the neighborhood from making this a favored watering hole. I believe the least expensive glass of wine on the menu is $7, and it goes up from there with most of what I would consider the better choices in the $12 and up range. The pours are generous enough, but you are absolutely paying for the chair you're sitting in - thank goodness it's a lovely chair. Presently there are around 100 wines to choose from, but I understand there will be closer to 300 soon; all of them available by the glass. Even if the wine list only shows a bottle price, apply the formula of 1/3 of the bottle cost to achieve the per glass price.

I think Du Vin is well worth a visit. I've been a few times already and there is something that just keeps luring me back. That Dave Stewart knows a thing or two about what we want and he delivers in spades. I'll close with a tip about parking. If you're nervous about walking from Harbor Court (the least expensive public parking within easy walking distance) in the evening, zip around the corner to Nuuanu and use the valet at Du Vin's sister restaurant, Indigo.

Du Vin
1115 Bethel St
Downtown Honolulu
545-1115
Open: 11am-10pm Mon-Sat (they stay open later on weekends or if the crowd demands it on weeknights)