North Shore Going Off!

Giant surf, bronzed bodies, skimpy bikinis, star-struck tourists, honu sightings, Acai bowls, yes. The North Shore has plenty of those. But Thai food?

Little do many know, but some of the best Thai food on the island comes from the North Shore, and until very recently, it all came from a truck! Opel Sirichandhra is the name, and Opal Thai is his slightly marketized (switching one letter) namesake. His lunchwagon was found in the same dirt lot on the Waialua side of Haleiwa as Giovanni's Shrimp truck, and for several years, drew a steady stream of ever-growing believers. Lucky us, business proved successful enough that the truck was ditched for a brand-spankin' new brick-and-mortar location at the Haleiwa Town Center, right next to L&L Hawaiian BBQ.

The New Opal Thai in Haleiwa

Though nothing fancy and very simple, the new digs are a welcome transition from the crowded, fly-infested dirt lot and sticky picnic bench tables of the past. Once inside the new spot, a palace by comparison, Opal's sheer presence quickly takes over and fills the entire room. He is about as friendly and gregarious as a television talk-show host, and his sincere personality seems to grow the more he's around his customers, feeding off their energy and throwing plenty of mojo right back, as well. Bouncing from the kitchen to the dining room, the guy is constantly busy taking orders, striking up conversations, making recommendations, and at every point, running the whole show like a seasoned pro.

Inside Shot

And if you're not exactly sure what to order, don't worry. In fact, even if you know what to order, you may not get it! Like a sushi chef executing an omakase dinner, Opal asks a few questions and immediately selects something for you, without even saying what it is, not even after the surprise dishes arrive at your table! Tinged with a smile and a hint of mischief, all he says is "I got something for you, no worry!"

Not sure what the hush-hush is all about, but since a little trust in your chef usually goes a long way, you could say our several visits to Opal Thai were pretty much completely out of our hands! The only dish we were allowed to pick freely was the first, a shrimp tom kha soup ($9.25 small; $12.95 large) that Kumi insisted upon - not even Opal himself can detract this girl after she sets her mind!

Tom Kha Soup

Without a doubt, the most famous soup of Thailand is tom yum, the hot, tangy-sour mix of fragrant Asian herbs, lime juice, fish sauce, and other exotic ingredients. Tom kha, on the other hand, is almost the same thing except for the addition of coconut milk, which cuts the acidity, adds a bit of sweetness, and provides a creamy heft, oftentimes to the point of resembling a curry.

Some of the most important aspects I look for in either soup, as well as a number of other Thai dishes, is the use of three key ingredients - lemongrass, galangal (a kind of Thai ginger), and kaffir lime leaf. The trio really brings it home as far as Thai food goes, providing an undeniable taste and fragrance that speaks volumes regarding authenticity. Needless to say, all three were found in our bowls, and we eagerly savored everything down to the last drop!

Tom Kha

Though tom kha was basically our appetizer course, there are plenty of more standard starters, such as crispy spring rolls, healthy summer rolls, chicken satay, spicy glazed wings, and fish cake fritters, as well as various salad choices. Opal, however, never shot one our way, instead sticking with entrees like this vegetarian mix:

Mixed Veggies

Basically, it was a soy-based sauce, though nothing like Japanese or local soy-based sauces, with eggplant, string beans, chili peppers, garlic, and the most interesting aspect, a topping of deep-fried basil that really set the dish apart.

Another vegetarian variety was served on a second visit, this time a yellow curry ($8.95 small; $9.75 large), filled with eggplant, tofu, string beans, and various herbs. The ingredients were perfectly cooked, their crispy freshness attesting to the fact that they were obviously made to order individually, not left in a large pot to melt into an obscure mushiness. Another well-executed dish!

Assorted Vegetable Curry

As you can see, the scoop of rice on the side isn't your average pile of grain, either. Opal really seems to enjoy showcasing a two-toned mix of both white jasmine and brown jasmine rice. Though as gorgeous and novel as it gets,  in all honesty, nothing beats a steaming bowl of pure white Jasmine, at least in my book!

Two-Toned Rice!

Even going back to his lunchwagon days, Opal always wanted everyone to try both varieties, as seen in this red curry plate:

Lunchwagon Days!

Gotta admit, I've only experienced that iconic SE Asian dish, larb, once in my entire life before this day, and it was an experience so bad I never thought I'd see it again! Actually created in Laos where it is extremely popular, the dish is also commonly found on Thai menus as well, especially in Northern parts of the country. Larb pretty much looks like ground pork or crumbled hamburger, but can be made from virtually any type of meat, including chicken, duck, and even fish. Can't say I wasn't disappointed when Opal first placed the dish on our table ($8.50), but by the time we were done, I had become a true believer! The crumbly pork was tender, juicy, and substantially seasoned; the sweet red onions provided that classic meat/onion match and a great texture contrast; the Chinese parsley added a fragrant touch of fresh herb; the bold touch of spice brought the necessary heat, and the complementary and refreshing flavors of citrus and fish sauce worked its way through every bite, bringing the entire dish together. Absolutely brilliant!

Larb

Like pancit to Filipino food, chow mein to Chinese, and ramen or yakisoba to Japanese, we've all tried pad thai at Thai restaurants before. Who can blame us? Opal, however, encourages you to broaden your Thai horizons. In true form, we were never told of the particular variety of noodle, but we found out from another server that it was their version of drunken noodles ($8.75):

Drunken Noodles

However it looks, these noodles were outstanding. Tomatoes, bell peppers, carrot, chili peppers, basil, onions, cabbage - a whole host of crispy, fresh vegetables, along with moist pieces of tender, white-meat chicken, would have made a respectable main entree in themselves. But add the wide, irregularly-cut noodles, which were soft, silky, and endowed with a chewy elasticity, and that dark, delicious, Asian-style gravy, and we had ourselves an entire meal! Aside from wishing for a little more of those outstanding noodles and a little less of everything else, this is one Oriental pasta that makes me forget all about pad thai, for sure!

I was even more impressed with another noodle dish, a crab noodle ($10.95):

Crab Noodles

Crab Noodle, up-close

Wow. Amazing! Unlike the drunken noodles, these long, thin strands were generously portioned, with a relative minimum of other ingredients, all of which played an important part in the dish as a whole. In ways I can't even describe adequately, the relatively simple combination of real crab, egg, and a touch of green onion worked surprisingly well with the perfectly cooked noodles. All I can say is - you gotta try it!

A healthy sprinkle of chili flakes, and we're not talking Schillings here, brought the dish, as well as several other dishes, to an even higher level. Opal takes great pride in this family-created secret, a blend of not just heat, but other complementary flavors as well. Instead of providing a container on every table, however, he'll personally present a single dispenser, one table at a time, at his discretion, so be sure to ask if it's not around:

Bring it!

Aside from the crab noodles, dishes we've tried run a smidgeon on the small side, but with only a few of the more expensive items running over $10, prices are also a smidgeon on the small side, at least compared to better Thai restaurants on the island. Strictly food-wise, Opal Thai is right there amongst the very best, by any level of measure. Despite its casual setting and even more casual host, the dishes project a razor-sharp cleanness and sense of execution normally reserved for higher-class restaurants. The flavors are bold, complex, and wide-ranging, while the ingredients, as you've seen, are all fresh and presented extremely well. Both Kumi and I were duly impressed in varying degrees with each dish presented, and I can only imagine how great some of the other menu choices must be.

Most definitely, Opal is the man to see for Thai food on the North Shore of Oahu! Tell him Stan (Aku) sent you, and leave him the rest of your wine bottle - he'll appreciate it!

Sorry I didn't contribute a post last month! Got lots more ono grinds coming in the future, though! I'll leave you with one last shot, a delicious iced Thai tea that makes an excellent sweet finish to your meal!

Perfect way to Finish!

Take care, and Aloha till next time,

Stan  (Aku)