Claus in Anchorage, Alaska

When we booked an August trip to Alaska one summer, we did it in haste, never expecting it to be so memorable and fun. We went to Alaska because it was convenient. It was near Hawaii, it was in the US, and we were dangerously close to not even taking a trip due to a toxic combination of too much work and too little energy to plan.

The decision to vacation in Alaska was not one borne out of a lifelong desire to experience the vast, untamed wilderness as described by James Michener, nor was it a curiosity formed after noticing it's a top tourist destination for islanders. It was simply that it was easy.

Now, as I look back on that two week trip, it was one of the best adventures I've ever had. Maybe it was because I expected so little of it. Maybe it shines in juxtaposition with a harrowing vacation -if one can call it that- the previous fall in Peru (read: clever teaser for future column). Whatever it was, it was wonderful, and I'll share my trip memories with the encouragement that you go.

My wife and I are adventure travelers. We don't mind roughing it. We don't mind a little dirt and sweat as the price to pay for an off-the-beaten-path reward. As we researched Alaska's offerings, the state started to appeal to us more and more. What we liked were the backcountry excursions, the wildlife sighting opportunities, and the flight seeing.

We eschewed the idea of a cruise - after all, we figured, we're young- because we wanted a more active trip that involved several cities across the state. We have since learned we were in the minority, by flying to Alaska and staying on land. Apparently, cruising is the most popular way to see the Last Frontier. We would not mind visiting Alaska again by ship.

ANCHORAGE
As I said, the August trip was thrown together in two weeks, so we couldn't easily find a hotel. That worked out for the best. We booked some bed and breakfasts in Anchorage (and that was still a scramble), which turned out to be a fantastic way to get to know the local community and cultivate friendships. In Anchorage, our hosts allowed us to walk their two dogs, so the four of us enjoyed daily jogs along the gorgeous Tony Knowles Coastal Trail.

Claus and Mandy on Tony Knowles Coastal Trail

The 11 mile path is one of 41 state trails set up to promote the well being of Alaskans. It runs along the coastline of Knik Arm, providing stunning views for joggers, walkers, rollerbladers, and in the winter, skiers. The weather in late summer was perfect: cool but not cold. The path is flat (the trail is marked "easy") so it also accommodates wheelchairs. You might also see grazing moose, though we did not. There were, however, many people taking advantage of this easily accessible trail, so be prepared for traffic! If you go, consider this an urban walk in the woods. There are few or no bathrooms, trash cans, or water fountains along the path.

Starr the reindeer

We walked every day to downtown Anchorage to enjoy the stores and attractions. Half the fun was the journey; for instance, along one of the residential streets, we passed a backyard cage containing Starr the reindeer. What an unusual sight for Hawaii residents! A local told us this home has had a reindeer pet as long as she could remember.

Due to the 18 hour long summer days, we experienced a strange decompression of time, in which we felt like we were getting double the vacation for the price of one. How odd to eat dinner, emerge from the restaurant, and still be fooled into thinking it's 7 p.m., when it's really 11 p.m.

If you're a shopper, you should probably lower your expectations. Anchorage - and Alaska in general- did not impress us to be hubs of retail commerce. Luckily, my wife and I are not big shoppers. Oh, except there's a Costco in Anchorage, and we happily bought lots of Alaska products to bring back as omiyage.

Anchorage, Alaska

Our best find was stumbling across the Anchorage Market & Festival, a weekend summer event in downtown Anchorage. Essentially a farmer's market, the festival bursts with a variety of fresh foods, arts, and local products like fresh oysters from Katchemack Bay in Seward, jams and jellies, syrups, jewelry, reindeer jerky, Alaskan "ulu" knives, and even frightening looking hats made of animal heads like wolves and foxes.

We took a day cruise around Portage Lake, carved out over thousands of years of glacial advances. There are no fish in the water due to the immense silt deposits. We hoped to see the glacier calve, but no such luck. Still, a worthwhile trip.

Moose at Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center

If you have children or animal lovers in your party, a stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center will go over well. It's the state's only drive-through wildlife park, where you can get close up shots of bison, bear, elk, deer, musk ox, moose, caribou, eagles, and porcupine.

We loved Anchorage, a small city with a Wild West feel reminiscent of Albuquerque, New Mexico, but with the geography of an undeveloped Vancouver, BC.

SEWARD
After a few days, we caught the 6:45 am train south to Seward ("SUE-ward"). It's a four hour ride on Alaska Railroad's Coastal Classic train through scenic and rugged terrain.

Train to Seward

The route travels 130 miles south along Turnagain Arm, then chugs through the verdant Turnagain Pass and Moose Pass on Kenai Peninsula. We had our first glimpse of glaciers, moose, and Dall sheep, before arriving in Seward, a town that reminds me of a slightly larger version of Kaunakakai in terms of size.

Many people overnight in Seward so they can take a cruise into Kenai ("Keen Eye") Fjords National Park, and walk to the face of Exit Glacier. We spent two nights in this quaint town, whose origins date back the early 1900's. Seward is famous in Alaska for a Fourth of July celebration shaped around a grueling foot race 3,000 feet to the top of Mt. Marathon.

Seward, Alaska

More than 3,000 people call Seward home, but that number swells considerably during the summer visitor season. (www.sewardak.org) I'm leading up to a travel warning. In my opinion, there appeared to be only a few really nice hotels, and a sprinkling of Motel 6-type inns. If you want to book at the more upscale lodges, you should plan far in advance of the peak summer season, mid-June through the end of August.

We considered ourselves lucky to get a couple nights at the aforementioned Motel 6-type Breeze Inn, and while checking in, we overheard some desperate, reservationless travelers imploring the clerk to call around and help them find a room for the night. They seemed to be having bad luck. Seward in the summer strikes us as definitely not a place to spontaneously drop in.

Seward

It's no wonder why Seward is so popular. Located at the head of Resurrection Bay on the Kenai Peninsula, it boasts breathtaking scenery. On our first night we took a three and a half hour evening kayak in the bay, launching off Lowell Point. Paddling through the light fog, we saw sea otters, a glacier, spawning salmon in Tonsina Creek, and a picturesque remote beach where we hiked to a waterfall, then had a small picnic and hot tea to warm up from the 55 degree chill. It was such a delightful excursion, despite the rain.

Kayak tours are plentiful, and if you opt for one, ask if they provide waterproof clothing. Some companies do; ours didn't, so my wife's jacket soaked through from a light but consistent rainfall, and she got a slight head cold the next day. I would provide you the name of the outfitter, but it might be fruitless because we were told there's a high turnover of service providers in Alaska. To this end, you should also get the most recent tour book before you go, and still call to make sure the company is in business.

The following day, we took a day cruise into Kenai Fjords National Park. Abundant marine life and awesome glaciers make this a cruise you do not want to miss. Ours included stops at Fox Island for a hot lunch and a grilled salmon dinner, but a storm brewing at sea truncated our eight and a half hour cruise to four hours. About five people threw up as the waves tossed the ship about and splashed the bow, and I fought hard not be become person number six. The sail was still worth it, though, as we got to see puffins, seals, and sea lions in their natural habitat.

The next day, we booked a five hour hike up Exit Glacier. Most people walk the quarter mile to the face of the glacier, but we agreed it was well worth the money to pay for a guide to take us up to the top of the towering chunks of blue and white ice. This hike is not for the faint of heart, as we made our way through densely packed trees, along a river's edge, past a family of marmots, up and then back down a small cliff, and over a gravelly area.

What started as a sweaty, hot trek became cold and windy near the top, so dress in layers, bring food and water, and if your outfitter doesn't supply them, bring hiking poles and crampons. Poles make a big difference on the hilly terrain, and crampons are a must-have on the ice.

Exit Glacier

Exit Glacier is amazing. This was me and my wife's favorite day on the whole trip, hands down. This is just how we pictured Alaska, and words and pictures can't do justice to being there in person. We explored the majestic crevasses, learned why glaciers are blue, and marveled at some of nature's own ice sculptures- though it was a bit daunting to hear how fast one can die if one falls into the glacier water!

We had hoped to find time to surf in Seward, and had even contacted Alaskan Surf Adventures about day trips out in the bay. However, there just wasn't enough time. Maybe this is the perfect excuse to return with our dry suits one year!

TALKEETNA
We drove up to Denali, stopping en route in Talkeetna, nestled at the base of Mount McKinley, North America's tallest peak. Year round, about 500 people live in this former mining and railroad town, which during April through July serves as the first stop for hundreds of mountain climbers gathering to prepare for their trudge up Mount McKinley.

Moose droppings

Besides the interesting lunch of bison hot dog and fiddlehead ferns, what we found most unusual about this town is its Moose Dropping Festival. No, this isn't moose being dropped out of planes, it's a festival celebrating moose feces which are shellacked and sold as novelty items, from earrings to Christmas tree ornaments. Please, take it for granted that we did not buy any poop as gifts.

DENALI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE
The topography becomes tundra-like as one drives north to Denali. This six million acre park is a great place to view wildlife like grizzly bears, caribou, wolves, Dall sheep, and moose, but with only one road through the entire park, most visitors travel by bus.

Denali National Park

It's a task to get a bus reservation. There are free buses, shuttle buses, and "tour buses" with guides, but that's a little misleading, since after a while, we developed the impression all the bus drivers give tours. The free buses carry you around the major visitor points.

The shuttle buses charge money based on how far into the park you want to go. We took the Toklat shuttle for just under $20 a person, expecting this to be just transportation. Indeed, there were hikers and campers getting on and off at various points. We were surprised to get a chatty driver who stopped and pointed out all sorts of things along the way like Willow ptarmigan birds and Dall sheep. When someone sees wildlife, they yell it out and the entire bus stops so everyone can push their faces against the windows. This drive turned out to be the best value for our money, but bring your own lunch and binoculars, and be prepared for a long ride!

Sighting wildlife on the Denali shuttle

There are two interpretive bus tour options to choose from: Tundra Wilderness Tour and the Natural History Tour. Again, due to the late planning of our whole trip, the tour we wanted was sold out, so we bought the $50 per person Natural History Tour. I can't say this was any better than the simple transportation provided by the Toklat shuttle. In fact, we found it a tiny bit boring.

Denali sled dog

Being an animal lover, my wife found it necessary to make a visit to the sled dogs. The park raises and breeds about three dozen canines, and holds demonstrations on sledding. Visitors are allowed to pet the dogs and hold the puppies. These are the only sled dogs in the country that patrol a national park.

Flight seeing Mt. McKinley

Though a little pricey, I recommend a flight seeing trip over Mt. Mc Kinley, otherwise known in American Indian as "Denali," the High One. Seeing the Alaska Range by air provided an unforgettable memory of the mountain as well as the 200 acres of Denali National Park around it, including the canyons, glaciers, and braided rivers.

FAIRBANKS
Fairbanks didn't move me. The former mining town's economy revolves around oil (we saw the Trans Alaska Oil Pipeline), gas, gold, coal mining, military, tourism and the University of Alaska (we enjoyed a tour of the university's botanical garden.) Fairbanks is the gateway to Alaska's Interior and Arctic. We spent 24 hours there, and that's all I could handle. There are those that will take exception to my characterization of this city, and I apologize, because I'm sure it's a nice place to live. It just wasn't for us.

CHENA HOT SPRINGS
An interesting, quirky resort in the middle of nowhere that caters to, of all things, hordes of Japanese tourists! The big draw is the natural hot springs, but there are also decent hiking trails, horseback rides, and numerous other activities. We were fascinated by the only year-round ice museum and hotel in the world, though 20 minutes inside curbed my desire to spend the night. Brr!

Chena Ice Museum & Hotel

Overall, a fantastic trip to the Last Frontier. I would definitely return to this state, and I would love to do it in the winter, to see some of the other fascinating elements we didn't have time to take in this trip, like the Northern Lights and the Far North.

 

 

FUN FINDS

Hair dryer bag

Heat lining of hair dryer bag

I air dry my hair, but according to my wife, this hair bag is a great travel accessory. It's lined with a foil to prevent the dryer from singeing the bag. And, more importantly, it's "cute." $11 Cinnamon Girl.

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