I wasn’t sure what to expect from my first visit to the Philippines, but I was pleasantly surprised. Before I went, I was warned by more than a few people about the high crime rate and spotty enforcement of the rule of law. However, I’m glad it didn’t deter me from enjoying a little bit of a country that is, underneath a sometimes grimy veneer, a wealth of historic, cultural, and environmental treasures.
The direct flight took a little over ten hours, so by the time I adjusted to jet lag, a day had lapsed on the ground. I would recommend you stay for at least a week on the ground if you can afford the time. (The infamously horrendous Manila traffic means your sightseeing schedule gets slashed by half or a third!) By the time I had gotten used to Manila time (18 hours ahead of Hawaii), it was time to fly back home, and I ended up getting a cold when I returned.
Friends recommended I stay at a brand name, five star hotel in Makati, because it would be safest. Makati is the equivalent of downtown Honolulu (but much larger), and walking those streets (by day) felt like any other metro street.
What drives home the point that you’re in a potentially dangerous situation is the fact that hotel security does bomb checks of each vehicle that drives in, and that management leaves a note in each room warning people “Manila is not spared from lawless elements that may prey on unsuspecting travelers.”
I completely appreciate this advisory, and I’ll share with you what the hotel said, because I found it a little surprising. (I admit, I limit my travel to risky countries, so maybe I’m naieve.)
“Please be cautious of strangers who may belong to a syndicated group whose motive is to extort cash. They may have gotten information about you from other sources. They may approach you in the hotel, on the street, in the malls; or may also try to befriend you and offer merchandise, food, or drinks.
Should you need to get around via cab, we urge you to avail of our hotel’s accredited taxis.
Always double lock your door for additional safety.
To enhance our security, we closed the entrance doors facing Makati Avenue. Please use the hotel’s main entrance and exit. Bags are routinely checked upon entry to the lobby, and car trunks are inspected in the driveway prior to entry.”
The last time I got these kinds of notices, I was traveling through the extremely lawless Peru. And that was a mess of a trip.
Friends in Hawaii had told me all kinds of frightening stories about people getting ripped off in horrible ways: their fingers cut off because they were wearing a flashy ring, tax kidnappings, etc. Some of these stories, by the way, came from a middle class, Philippines national who only moved to Hawaii recently, and who still has family, including a sister, in Manila. Pretty credible source.
However, with a little luck and a lot of common sense, I did not have any horrible encounters. In fact, I had a great time.
I visited the historic Intramuros, a walled city within metro Manila that takes you back half a century to Spain’s colonization of the Philippines. Intramuros was built in 1571, and is comprised of European buildings and churches. It’s amazing that it is still a living city – not a preserved museum – and that people still live out their lives on these streets. It’s one of the world’s best preserved medieval cities, with centuries-old dungeons, churches, bulkwarks, and plazas. It’s also right in the heart of Manila.
Within Intramuros is San Augustin Church, where the last Spanish governor of Manila surrendered to the Filipinos in 1898. Next door is the Augustinian Monastery, which is now a religious museum.
There’s also the Manila Cathedral, which is a Vatican-funded reconstruction of the cathedral destroyed during World War II. The cathedral faces the Plaza de Roma, once used as a bullfighting ring. Numerous vendors wait out front hoping to entice tourists to part with a few pesos in exchange for knickknacks or a ride on a pony-pulled cart.
At night, if you want some authentic entertainment, grab a taxi and go to the Hobbit House. That’s in a seedy, casino filled area of Manila, which some locals also tried to steer me away from due to the crime rate at night. However, the Hobbit House made the trip worth it for me.
It’s the only restaurant in the world, it claims, “owned, managed, and staffed by HOBBITS.” It’s actually known for great live music as well. The bar has been around for decades, but it’s become so popular there’s a second one now in Boracay.
The exterior signage lets you know it’s mimicking Lord of the Rings. The bar inside looks like a replica of The Shire, with dark lighting, wooden tables, fake-fire torchieres, and, of course, the little people running the joint. They are the nicest folks, though it’s quite a surreal experience to have someone taking your order who is shorter than you - while you’re sitting down. Looks like the beers are floating around the tavern all by themselves.
It would be easy to stay within the confines of globalization and have a very American experience, even in the Philippines.
There are a few very nice malls that are exactly like any other store you’d find in the US – down to the same price points. But I tried to eat new foods; cultural faves like ube mochi and sweet corn ice cream. OK, I know that’s not quite going out on a limb, but it’s something hard to find in the US!
The next time I return, I’m definitely going to have to stay longer – and venture outside Manila.
CELEBRITY SUITCASE
What can't they travel without?

Ericson Cristobal and George Hurd, TV news photographers
Both men have been on assignment in the Philippines, so we decided to ask them for some travel tips.
Ericson Cristobal has been at KHNL (NBC) since 1999, rising from technician to news videojournalist. He says he likes to travel light - taking just "a plan and a digital camera!" Cristobal says he hasn't been to too many international destinations (just Micronesia and Manila, and both times for work), but he did honeymoon in Disneyland.
George Hurd is KGMB's chief photographer. He's been in the biz since 1973, where he started out at KABC in Los Angeles. Hurd has been at KGMB (CBS) for 14 years. He's well traveled; not only because of his job, but also because his wife is a former Delta Airlines employee.
When George hits the road, he likes to take two sets of clothes PER DAY, plus a long sleeved shirt and jacket just in case. "I travel heavy," he chuckles. If it's for work, he treats it like "a shoot just around the corner," meaning he doesn't overpack his gear, but yet he takes along all the essentials. "I also take along patience, respect for the gear, and a good attitude," says Hurd.