San Diego: the city so nice, we had to see it twice. We visited San Diego for the first time in July and liked it to much we decided to go there just a couple months later for a fall family vacation. In ten days, here’s what we took in, and our thoughts and recommendations on it from a family-friendly perspective.
My wife Diane and I chose to stay at a vacation rental apartment because of our toddler Olivia, who was 15 months old at the time. During our July trip, we stayed in a hotel, but this time we thought a home-type setting would be far easier with a youngster. That was a good call.
We rented a place in Mission Hills, which was central, comfortable, and safe. If you are going with a toddler, remember to take some rubber bands to babyproof the kitchen cabinets and some socket plugs. Try to remember that most rentals have dull knives, so don’t attempt any fancy dishes. I learned that the hard way trying to make gazpacho.
We really like San Diego. The people are friendly, the atmosphere is laid back but hip, the city streets are so clean, and the traffic rarely snarled up. If you go, the fall is a great time. It seemed like there were only a third of the crowds we encountered in the summer.
The weather was good, but a little odd. Our travel dates were the end of September to mid-October, and in this time, we encountered a range of temperatures, from Santa Ana-wind heat of over 100 degrees, to nippy high 60’s. We saw still, windless days, and an unusual rain storm (which the weathercasters made much of on tv that night.) I’d suggest to pack a little of everything, from a swim suit to a jacket.
We saw over a dozen attractions, and we liked them all. Everything had something different to offer, so it’s quite hard to name a favorite. If you’re going, why don’t you sample them all and see for yourself?
SEAWORLD
An experience not to be missed, Seaworld is better to visit in the fall than in the summer. The crowds were half of what they were in July, which meant we saw a lot more of the park.
In addition to first class exhibits, attractions, and rides, Seaworld is an important force in conservation, not just because of what it does, but because it makes you think twice about how your actions impact these creatures you meet at the park.
We took a couple of interactive tours that brought us up close to the animals. First, the Penguin Experience Tour brought us into the 25 degree penguin cove, where we became part of the exhibit for the visitors on the other side of the glass. Tucked in a far corner, we got to stare at five species of penguins, all just inches away on the other side of a gate. Keeper Heather McDonald even lifted one up so we could pet him! A definite trip highlight.
Oh, and by the way, if you hear a rumor from your friend’s cousin’s aunt that her son stole one of the outdoor Magellan penguins by stuffing it in his backpack and the crime wasn’t discovered till he got home, it’s not true. We’re told it’s an urban legend in San Diego that surfaces once a year, and it’s time to put this one to rest!
Then, on the 90 minute Behind the Scenes Tour, we met the cutest sea lion pup. Four month old Dubai was abandoned, and Seaworld staffers saved her. Keeper Kevin Robinson tells me they rescue about 170 abandoned or stranded marine animals a year. They’re the only organization in this area that does it, with a territory stretching from the Mexican border to Camp Pendelton.
The goal is always to release the animal back into the wild, and Seaworld has a 75 percent success rate. Some of the animals Seaworld sees have been injured by manmade hazards like swallowing plastic bags or fish hooks; it’s just another reminder to walk gently on the earth.
The Behind the Scenes Tour stops at two to three areas, so we also met some of the dolphins in the park’s collection, and fed them a fishy snack. I could go on and on about what we liked, but it’s better if you just check it out for yourself!
BALBOA PARK
We spent two full days taking in Balboa Park with the Passport to Balboa Park, San Diego's best cultural value. You can visit these 13 museums or attractions in the park one time each in a seven day period, which is a significant cost savings plus saves the hassle of buying a ticket at each destination.
Museum of San Diego History
San Diego Model Railroad Museum
San Diego Museum of Art
San Diego Museum of Man
San Diego Natural History Museum
San Diego Hall of Champions
Japanese Friendship Garden
Mingei International Museum
Museum of Photographic Arts
Reuben H. Fleet Science Center
San Diego Air & Space Museum
SDAI- Museum of the Living Artist
San Diego Automotive Museum
The museums are a must-see item on any visitor’s list. The lesson: don’t judge a museum by its name. I didn’t think the various gardens would be that interesting, but I found them to be a relaxing oasis. Diane wasn’t at all interested in seeing the Air & Space Museum, but she ended up loving the Star Trek exhibit.
The museums are all interesting, and surprisingly smaller than we expected. It’s possible to take in a few a day. Don’t forget to have lunch at El Prado, the full service restaurant in the park.
Olivia was too young for the Reuben H. Fleet Science Center, but we met up with Diane’s cousin Valerie Lee, and her four and six year olds had a blast there.
http://www.balboapark.org/info/passport.php
WILD ANIMAL PARK
The 1,800-acre San Diego Zoo’s Wild Animal Park was more fun for us than for our daughter, who saw it mostly from a stroller. The wildlife sanctuary is home to more than 3,500 animals representing 429 species, including the largest crash of rhinos in any zoological facility.
On the day we visited, it was an unusually hot October day due to the Santa Ana winds, and the temperature was about 100 degrees Farenheit. Diane started getting heat exhaustion.
The park is not in San Diego’s metro. It’s 40 minutes north in Escondido. Apparently, it's not unusual for temperatures to be 5 to 10 degrees warmer there than in San Diego.
She took a cue from the elephants, and constantly poured water over her head to keep cool. The park cleverly set up water-misters at heavily trafficked areas to keep crowds cool. I wouldn’t let this discourage you from going, but just be ready to cope with the heat. Bring ice, water, or a mister. (You could buy it there also.) Wear a hat, sunblock, sunglasses, and shorts. And you’ll be doing a lot of walking, so wear sneakers.
The Best Value ticket included the Journey Through Africa, a 30-minute tram ride through field habitats that mimic the African plains. This was one of many different events and rides the Park offers. You could spend the entire day there; I’d budget for at least half a day.
If you’re not too pooped out afterwards, visit the small local winery (Orfila) on your way back to the freeway!
15500 San Pasqual Valley Rd.
Escondido, CA 92027-9614
(760) 747-8702
http://www.sandiegozoo.org/wap/index.html
BIRCH AQUARIUM
The mission of Birch Aquarium is to provide ocean science education, to interpret Scripps Institution of Oceanography research, and to promote ocean conservation. This tiny but extremely well-planned aquarium makes for a fun one to two hours for the family.
From tropical fishes to kelp forests, all kinds of habitats are represented here. This beautiful 70,000-gallon kelp tank featuring colorful sea life is one of the most popular exhibits. There are more than 60 marine tanks, an interactive oceanographic museum, and a 13,000 gallon shark reef, to name a few of the fascinating attractions inside.
We went here with our friends, a family of five, and it seemed like everyone liked something different. I liked the weedy and leafy sea dragons, my wife liked the sharks, some of the kids liked the interactive exhibit stations, while our child liked the touch tide pool. Bring an extra change of kids’ clothes in the car, because a lot of the kids we saw, including ours, got a little crazy with the touch-tide pool.
Everyone agreed the most stunning aspect of the aquarium, however, is the panoramic view of the beach town. It’s built on a coastal bluff overlooking La Jolla Shores beach and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, and the view alone is worth coming back for. The Birch Aquarium at Scripps has best ocean views in and out of the water.
Splash Café offers sandwiches, snacks, and refreshments outside, or you could drive down into the resort town of La Jolla for lunch and a closer look at those beautiful beaches you see from the bluffs of the aquarium.
858-534-FISH
2300 Expedition Way
La Jolla, CA 92093-0207
http://aquarium.ucsd.edu/
OLD TOWN TROLLEY
All around the metro area, you’ll see orange and green trolleys carting tourists around. This is Old Town Trolley Tours of San Diego, and we think it’s a great way to get around. Do this on your first day to get the lay of the land.
We knew San Diego enough to know that the city is easy to navigate, and everything seems close. Nothing was further than a 20 minute drive. However, it was nice to let someone else do the driving, and not worry about parking fees. (Though, we found the city very progressive in offering a lot of free parking, or where there were meters or pay lots, we never had much problem finding a stall.)
All you do is buy the ticket and hop on the bus. The trolleys run a loop of nine popular tourist stops around town. You just get on and off as you please. The ticket is good for the whole day, so you should get an early start.
They say they offer “transportainment, a delightful combination of transportation and entertainment.” That’s about correct, because all the drivers share facts and tidbits about the area as they drive through it; we learned a lot!
We stopped at Seaport Village, which reminds us of Aloha Tower Marketplace; Coronado, and Old Town. The trolleys come by every half hour, and if one is full, the wait for the next one isn’t supposed to be that long (again, a great reason to travel in the fall versus the summer). If you really want to see every stop on their route, buy the two-day tour. And pack light, because you’ll be carrying your stuff with you all day.
http://www.trolleytours.com/San-Diego/
SAN DIEGO ‘SEAL’ TOUR
We splashed into San Diego’s most unique sightseeing adventure! Both tour bus and boat, the San Diego SEAL Tour goes through San Diego by land AND sea. The unique “Hydra-Terra” amphibious vehicles are Coast Guard approved, in case you’re wondering about how a car safely converts to a boat.
The fully narrated 90 minute tour departs from San Diego’s Seaport Village and drives through the historic streets of San Diego before sailing into San Diego’s Big Bay to see Navy ships, sea lions, sea birds, and if you’re lucky like we were, dolphins!
Strollers aren’t allowed on board, so leave that in your car. Also, look for a seat near the front. The last row or so is near the engine, and when the vehicle is in the water, it seems to get louder and hotter. I happened to have earplugs in my backpack, and while it wasn’t necessary, I appreciated having them.
You won’t need a hat because the vehicle has a roof, but it does get windy on the freeway. Also, I imagine in the colder months you might need a light jacket from the breeze.
We combined this with the Old Town Trolley Tour (same company), and both tours made for a full, fun day.
http://www.trolleytours.com/san-diego/seal-tours.asp
HORNBLOWER’S HARBOR CRUISES
What an awesome way to see the bay: from the comfortable deck of a smooth sailing yacht. We soaked in the sights and sounds of the magnificent San Diego Bay this way. We couldn’t decide between the North Harbor or the South Harbor cruise, so we took both.
On the north end of the bay, it was mostly military stuff. On the south end, we passed a row of battleships, the Coronado Bay Bridge, and Seaport Village.
This was probably Olivia’s favorite activity, but only because she got to run around a big ship and get really tired. That means we, too, enjoyed the cruise, because it allowed us to relax, sometimes sit down, and enjoy the pretty views for two whole hours. It was a nice change of pace from the constant walking and navigating that most sightseeing consists of.
They sell food on board, but it’s mostly snacks (chips and candy). If you have a child, you might want to bring a few kiddie snacks like fruit, toast, or whatever your kid likes, especially if you’re taking the two hour tour. The only actual food on board is microwaveable cheeseburgers and Hot Pockets, which (no offense, Hornblower) I don’t want to feed my kid. Yet.
There are lots of metered stalls to park, but bring a lot of quarters. It’s 25 cents for 12 minutes. Sorry – I didn’t figure out if the meters go for up to two hours. We didn’t want to get towed, so we paid $10 to park in the lot across the street.
http://www.hornblower.com/harbortours.asp?port=sd
I’m hitting my word count limit for this edition, so San Diego is going to have to be a two-parter. Stay tuned for next month when I review some fun and nearly free things to do, plus a look at some nice places to eat. And, is there one place you should pass on? I”ll save you a little time and tell you what’s an attraction that’s seen better days. That’s in the January column – till then, thanks for stopping by!
