Although this is a column about hiking in Hawaii, every so often I like to include a hike from somewhere else. Most of us take a break from Hawaii once in a while, and there are lots of fine hikes to experience on the mainland. Pinnacles, located in central California, is a hiker's dream, and not to be missed if you are in the area, or prefer uncrowded places. Unlike most national recreation areas, there are no roads; all vehicle access ends a short distance from the park entrances at one of the two visitor centers. There are no scenic drives, no restaurants or stores, and no accommodations, except for a campground just outside the east entrance. This place is for hikers and climbers.
One of the interesting things about Pinnacles is that so few people seem to know about it, even folks who live reasonable close by. The Monument lies about 115 miles southeast of San Francisco, and is separated into an east and a west district, with visitor centers in both districts. The east district and the Bear Gulch Visitor Center is reached by driving south from Hollister on CA 25 for about 30 miles, then turning west (right) onto CA 146.
Pinnacles East Section
The west district and the Chaparral Ranger Station and Visitor Center is reached via CA 146 from Soledad. There is no road connecting the east and west side of the Monument; the eastern and western ends of CA 146 do not meet. Most of this road is winding and narrow, in some places only one lane wide. It is not recommended for trailers or large RVs.
Pinnacles West Section
In addition to attracting climbers and hikers, Pinnacles also attracts bird watchers, and its spire-like rock formations, rising 1,200 to 3,300 feet high, make it one of the best places to see the high-soaring California condor.
California condor (Photo by Daniel Bianchetta, courtesy Ventana Wildlife Society)
It is also a fine place to see a profusion of wildflowers in the spring.
Two caves, one in each section of the Monument, provided special added attractions. Established park trails pass through both caves, allowing each to be visited on a day hike which also takes in other features of the park. The Bear Gulch Caves Trail passes through the cave on a short (1 mile) trip en route to beautiful Bear Gulch Reservoir.
En route to Bear Gulch
Squeezing through rocky entrance
Rock-enclosed Moses Spring
Exiting cave area
Dangling rock seems to threaten hiker on stairs
Bear Gulch Reservoir
Lake denizen peers at camera
Special Note: Bear Gulch Cave is open only at certain times of the year, usually in early spring, when the bats are not home (This makes both bats and hikers happy). Check with the park headquarters for dates (see end of this article). When the cave is closed, hikers take a by-pass trail around it to Moses Spring and the reservoir.
Balconies Caves, in the West Section, is located 1 mile northeast of the Chaparral Ranger Station, along the Balconies Trail.
Jumbled entrance to Balconies Caves
Flashlights are required to proceed further
Light beckons at the end of one cave section
Cave ends at gate.
Since hiking is mostly what this park is about, one of the first things visitors should do is get a trail map from either one of the visitor centers, and put together hikes commensurate with their physical condition and experience. There are more than 30 miles of marked trails to choose from. Hardy hikers will have no trouble hiking from one section of the park to the other, and returning on the same day. They can choose one of several loops which cross the high peaks of the park, with distances ranging from 6 to 9 miles round trip.
En route to High Peaks from East section
In among the Pinnacles
Sunset from the High Peaks
Rocky trail on the High Peaks
Because of the relative isolation of both sections of the Monument, hikers with only a day to spend should visit the west section, with a morning hike along the Juniper Canyon Trail to circle the High Peaks (5 miles round trip). Following lunch, a 2.5-mile round trip to Balconies Caves would complete the day. Visitors with more time to spend should consider the campground at the east entrance to the park, which affords a wider range of hiking opportunities. The campground has an open air pool and a small store.
The photos below provide additional views of hiking along some of the trails in the park.
West Section view
Juniper Canyon Trail
Tunnel Trail, High Peaks area
Hiker approaching huge rock formation
Bridge crosses into deep gorge
Admiring the view from High Peaks area
On the North Wilderness Trail
Pinnacles is open all year, but spring is the best time to visit, when hikers have the added benefit of seeing wildflowers in bloom. Fall is also a good time. The rest of the year is good for hardy folk, who will have the place pretty much to themselves. Summer temperatures can exceed 100 degrees F., and winter temperatures can drop to the mid 30s.
For more information and latest conditions, go to www.nps.gov/pinn/index.htm.
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