As I have done at the end of the last two years (Monument Valley, December, 2004, and Pinnacles National Monument, January, 2006), this month's column will feature a hiking vacation outside of Hawaii. This time we will venture farther afield, to Les Contamines, a small town near Chamonix, France, to describe an affordable hiking vacation in one of the world's most famous vacation spots.

Hiker looks down on Les Contamines from the surrounding hills

Six years ago, some hiking friends and I discovered HF Holidays, a British hiking club which offers walking tours in Europe at prices much cheaper than we could find anywhere else. Taking a chance, we signed up for a trip to the Austrian Alps, and have been hiking with them every year since. We found that HF offered not only a very reasonable price, but excellent accommodations in small hotels, fine food, and a choice of two different guided hikes each day. In addition, there is the pleasure of meeting fellow hikers from different countries, with most of them coming from the British Isles.

Les Contamines is located only a short distance from Mount Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe.

Para gliders soar in the shadow of Mount Blanc

Also nearby, are the famous Aiguilles (needles), the mountains which form the backdrop of Chamonix.

The needle-shaped mountains of Chamonix
 

The countryside surrounding Les Contamines provides some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere.

Flowers bloom everywhere, in the wild, and carefully tended around buildings and in window boxes.

Beautiful flower displays add to the magnificent scenery

The two different hikes offered daily by the HF guides are graded by difficulty. The easier hikes at Les Contamines vary from 4 to 8 miles long, with elevation gains of from 1,000 to 2,100 feet. The harder hikes are from 7 to 12 miles long, with elevation gains of from 2,600 to 4,300 feet. Hikers have the option of choosing between easier and harder hikes each day. The easier hikes usually use graded trails,

A scenic, graded trail

while the harder ones often favor steeper, rockier routes.

Harder itineraries use steeper, rockier routes.

Easier hikers can enjoy more comforts at lunch and rest stops,

with more variety at lunch,

[Photo by Judy Marshall]

but the harder walkers have more spectacular settings.

Both sometimes share the same high mountain restaurant.

Occasionally we meet a heavily-laden local hiker and his helper.

[Photo by Judy Marshall]

Another popular sport in the Alpine area is para sailing. One of our group took lessons on or free day, and got to sail tandem with the instructor.

Few places in the world offer a more spectacular view than seen from a para sail high above the Alpine peaks.

On certain days, the leaders make use of buses, chair lifts, and cable cars, to get as high and as deep into the mountains as possible. On such a day we went to a large glacier near Chamonix.

After a chairlift ride and an hour-long walk, we reached the foot of the glacier.

Then we began a long uphill hike along its edge, to a point where it dropped in a waterfall of ice.

At one point a mountain goat expressed its displeasure at our intrusion into his domain.

[Photo by Judy Marshall]

We kept going until we seemed lost in a world of white.

[Photo by Judy Marshall]

Our reward was a long, tall beer at the end of the trail.

[Photo by Judy Marshall]

One day of each week with HF is a free day, with no hikes scheduled. This is to permit folks to sightsee, shop, hike on their own, or just hang around town. Most of our group took the dramatic cable car from Chamonix to the top of the Aiguille du Midi, more than 12,000 feet high.

Aiguille du Midi

Telephoto shot of the cable car ascending to the top of the Aiguille du Midi

Other activities for the free day off include sightseeing,

Modernistic-style church

which included an interesting building (below), in which all features - windows, trees, etc., are painted on the solid, yellow wall.

Painted wall

Another option is to visit one of several small Alpine lakes,

or simply stroll around town.

Artistic firewood storage [Photo by Judy Marshall]

The cost for two weeks at Les Contamines in 2007 is 780 British pounds, which can be paid by credit card, eliminating the necessity to exchange currency. When we began traveling with HF six years ago, that amount was the equivalent of $1014. Due to the severe decline in the value of the dollar, the same amount in pounds is now $1520, an increase of 50%, but still a bargain for what is provided. All rooms come with private baths, and most have balconies. Two meals per day are included. Breakfasts are generous - spreads of various meats and cheeses, a selection of breads and rolls, eggs, fruit, fruit juice, coffee and tea. Evening meals are just as hearty - a salad bar, soup, a choice between two main courses, and dessert. Coffee and tea are also served, and vegetarians can be accommodated. Two experienced guides lead each of the daily hikes. Costing extra are lunches, alcoholic beverages, and rides on lifts and some buses.

In addition to France, HF also offers walking tours in Austria, Switzerland, Spain, and many other countries in Europe and worldwide. We have found the European trips a bargain, but the worldwide trips don’t offer the same financial incentive for travelers from the United States. Those interested in browsing through their many offerings may visit the following web site:
www.hfholidays.co.uk

[Photo by Judy Marshall]

NEXT MONTH: HAHAIONE RIDGE TO KOOLAU SUMMIT

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