As is my usual practice, I like to start out the new year with a hiking tour outside of Hawaii (French Alps-January 2007, Pinnacles National Monument-January 2006, Monument Valley-December 2004). This year I am going farther afield than before, with a trip to Turkey, walking parts of the Lycian Way, a UN World Heritage hiking trail. In company with several members of the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, I booked a one-week tour with HF Holidays, followed by a two-week trip with Ramblers, both British hiking clubs which we had traveled with before.

The ancient Greek kingdom of Lycia is now located in southwestern Turkey. Its coast fronts the Mediterranean Sea, affording it lots of sunshine, and a year-round pleasant climate, except for the hottest summer months. One of the added benefits of hiking in the region is the opportunity to visit many ancient Greek and Roman ruins, such as Termessos, Perge, and Myra. In fact, the Lycian Way passes right through many of them.

The Lycian Way begins in the resort town of Fethiye, heads east following mostly a winding, coastal route, and ends near the city of Antalya, covering a distance of 500 kilometers (about 310 miles). In spite of its coastal nature, it is not a flat trail. There are many ups and downs as the route skirts the foothills of the Taurus Mountains. Spring and fall are the best times to hike the trail.

For the first week, with HF Holidays, we stayed in a waterfront hotel in Fethiye, and did day hikes along the Way, transported to the trail heads by minibus. The following two weeks with Ramblers, we were based in four coastal towns, again day hiking along different segments of the Way. It is possible to through-hike the entire Lycian Way, staying in small hotels or private homes en-route, but camping is required along certain sections. Our group preferred the comfort of hot showers, warm beds and cold beer after a day on the trail.

On our first day, the bus took us to a small village where we began a steep climb on the slopes of Babi Dag, one of the highest mountains in the area (nearly 6,500 feet).

From the trail, we had fabulous views of the coastline and Ulu Deniz, another World Heritage site because of its pristine lagoon.

The following day we followed the route of an old Roman aqueduct to the ancient ruins of Patara, then relaxed and swam at its 12-mile-long beach.

Another day hike explored the Saklikent Gorge, the longest in Turkey.

A long, but rewarding day began with a high ridge walk, descending to Kabak Bay, where we boarded a boat which took us to Butterfly Valley for a swim and a walk up the valley to a small waterfall (but no butterflies).

Transferring to Ramblers for two weeks, we continued our Lycian Way exploration. We hiked along the path of another Roman aqueduct,

climbed steep, rocky trails,

and visited the ancient theater at Xanthos.

Small villages along the way displayed their wares,

and Way markers kept us on course.

We were treated to a spectacular view as the Lycian Way rounded Yardimci Point.

A day of rest took us for a boat tour of the coast.

The Way then led us along high trails

to places such as Chimaira, where flames have burned from fissures in the ground since ancient times.

At Olympus, we peered into a sarcophagus, looted more than a thousand years ago.

Our days ranged from high mountain trails,

to descents into deep gorges.

At the end of most days, we could usually find a small watering hole for a refreshing drink.

Sometimes we were welcomed into local homes for hot tea or a cold glass of ayran (liquid yogurt)

 

At last, we arrived at Antalya, the end of the Lycian Way.

Here, we visited its world class antiquities museum.

Our final hike was to Termessos, where a steep foot path assures that only hardy souls will visit it.
Termessos has not been excavated, and because of its difficult location and access, it may remain that way.

Back in Antalya, our last day was spent shopping, swimming, or taking in the local sights.

For those interested in learning about HF and Ramblers hiking trips, their web sites are listed below.

www.hfholidays.co.uk

www.ramblersholidays.co.uk

The best way to hike the trails on Oahu is with the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club and the Sierra Club. Both have permission to hike many routes not open to the general public. Neither one requires membership to join most hikes, although non-members pay a small fee, and they restrict certain hikes to members only. For info on membership and hiking schedules, see the following web sites. HTMC & Sierra Club.

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