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Friday, July 3, 2009

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Sports :: Surf :: Live Green, Surf Clean

Bustin' Down the Door
In the 1960's and early 1970's, life on the North Shore of Oahu was a crude, minimal, and bohemian existence for both resident and visiting surfers. Poverty, drugs, sponging, odd jobs, meditation, hitchhiking, transiency, and lots and lots of water time were the call for the plucky few who sacrificed creature comforts in exchange for close proximity to the world's greatest waves. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life

April Fools With Local Rules
April certainly did fool us this year. When I left to Tasmania at the beginning of the month thinking the Northshore would be well into it usual slumber, I was wrong. That week offered a solid 6-8 ft North swell and then a couple 4-6 ft days at Pipe; one of those days was taken by the annual lifeguards bodysurfing competition there. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Live Green, Surf Clean

They Paved Paradise
Local folks often remark on the unsightly Honolulu skyline and the urban sprawl that continues its advance throughout Oahu and the state. For every foreign owned luxury condo or hotel being erected, there seem to be ten strip malls popping up. For every opulent mansion, two hundred affordable homes and condos are slapped together, and on... and on... and on. Where you might be wondering, does it all end? More »

Sports :: Surf :: Hawaii Surf Scene

Black Monday: Life After Clark Foam
In 1978 there was Big Wednesday.  Now, December 5, 2005 will forever be remembered in the surfing world as Black Monday. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Hawaii Surf Scene

Where Did Bodyboarding Go?
In 1971, Tom Morey took an electric knife and a clothes iron to some polyethylene foam and created the first bodyboard. He called his invention the "Morey Boogie," started selling them, and sales soon skyrocketed (note: a boogie board is the old-timers' name of a bodyboard; there is no distinction between the two). It became so popular in fact, that at one point, bodyboards were purportedly outselling surfboards in surf shops at a rate of six to one. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life

Hawaii Notes Feb 2008
In February, we got our waves. The month started out looking like the rest of the year with cold windy weather and flat surf. The Monster Pro and Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic was held in such small surf it seemed like there was a contest as to which Pipe contest was the worst in surfing history, the recent WQS was held from Jan 27- Feb 6 or the former Pipemasters WCT event which was held late mid December. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life

Spirit of Aloha
Though the north shore lagged all month, south shores kept surfers busy in August. These are the months where you get to work while its flat and surf while its happening because the flat spells in between are really flat. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life

High Season Hawaii
This morning was somewhat surreal. 6-8 perfect pipe with the sun gleaming above and no wind whatsoever. It's the kind of day we live and long for here in Hawaii. Pipe Soldiers all made their way out to the line up today with a sparkle in their eyes, but the line up was choked by about 7:30 with about 75 guys and just two moving peaks. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life

Hana Hou
Bonus Month of surf for both North and South shores. The North shore had little waves trickling in through the first half of the month, but it wasn't over until the fat barrels sung one more tune. On June 11th the North shore saw 6 foot sets by evening and then the next day proceeded with solid 6-8 ft consistent surf. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Hawaii Surf Scene

Malik and Mortality
I did not know pro surfer Malik Joyeaux. All my knowledge of him came from the many images and stories about Malik in surf mags and videos. And yet I had a heavy heart when I learned of his passing. More »

Sports :: Surf :: Banzai Betty Blog

Barbie Doesn't Surf
I cannot keep my mind on doing this blog thing cause the surf is up again. A swell in May and we are loving life! Surfers are ruled by the ebb and flow of the sea! So it seems girl surfers are getting a little restless because there have been no events to compete in that offer them incentive, you know some green! More »

Other Surf Columns

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Other Surf Columns

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