Malik remembered at Ehukai
I did not know pro surfer Malik Joyeaux. All my knowledge of him came from the many images and stories about Malik in surf mags and videos. And yet I had a heavy heart when I learned of his passing.
Several years ago when I first heard about Malik, I was amused that a Frenchman would be living in Tahiti, tow-surfing with the locals. Didn't connect in my brain that Tahiti is a part of French Polynesia and that there is a large contingent of Europeans in the islands.
Though only 25, Malik was quickly becoming a hero in the Tahitian surf community with his fearless tow-in surfing at their premier break, Teahupo'o. In fact, last year Malik was pulled into one of the biggest wave ever ridden at the spot, a massive, deep blue beauty.
Malik on one of the biggest waves ever ridden at Teahupo'o, (Photo courtesy Tim McKenna)
However, on December 2, 2005, in big, but not necessarily outrageous surf at Pipeline, Malik took off on a set wave, bottom turned, and got slammed by the heavy lip. His board was shattered in two and leash ripped off. Fellow surfers immediately and frantically searched the impact zone, knowing that every second counted. However, it took an excruciating 15 minutes before they found him underwater about 200 yards down the beach. Efforts to revive him were unsuccessful. Malik had left us.
The coroner's report stated that Malik died of asphyxiation due to drowning. A contusion was found on his head, but it is unclear as to whether he drowned after being knocked unconscious. We'll just never know.
Malik's last wave (Photo courtesy Cameron Nelson)
I know this may be a case of semantics, but to me, to simply state that he drowned belittles his memory. Drowning has an underlying implication that he put himself into conditions that were beyond his skills, which is untrue. I believe it was an unfortunate accident that ultimately led to his passing.
In actuality, people wipeout like that or even worse all the time on the North Shore and throughout the world. Although it was bad, it was most definitely not unusual. And that's the thing. Surfers understand that it can be really dangerous out there, yet we oftentimes deny this truth. We sometimes even get into the mindset that we are invincible. But when something like this happens, when someone as skilled as Malik dies in medium-sized (for him) conditions, it brings home the gravity of the situation.
A Pipeline Master competitor gets pitched (he was OK)
The surf community has been understandably shaken from this tragedy, not just for the loss of a fellow surfer, but also because of this realization that the danger is all too real. Nobody wants to be reminded of his or her mortality, especially us macho surfers. But it can happen; we can get injured (or worse).
I remember pro bodyboarder Lanson Ronquilio had a similar experience back in 2001. Lanson got caught in the impact zone at Pipeline and was knocked unconscious by the concussion of a wave. Fortunately, friends got to him in time and he was revived. Lanson is now returning the favor, working as a lifeguard on the North Shore.
Surfing is no carnival ride with safety bars and regulations. Ultimately, you are the one who decides to paddle out and take off, and you should be able to take care of yourself, with the understanding that accidents will occasionally happen. I guess this uncertainty and danger is part of the thrill of the surfing experience.
Smiling in the tube at Pipe last winter (Photo courtesy the ASP and Pierre Tostee)
Joyeaux means "happy" in French. And looking back at all the old photos of Malik, you will see that every single one of them has him smiling. I am told that this was Malik. I'm sure that wherever he is, he is still beaming with that infectious smile.
Malik lived life on his own terms, charging waves and living life to the fullest. He had a deep passion for waveriding, and was full of stoke and aloha. I did not know Malik. But then again, on some transcendental level, maybe I did.
My small tribute to Malik: December 4, 2005, Pipeline
Postscript: I need to acknowledge Gary Kewley of the Surf News Network who wrote an article ("Pipe Claims Another") with a very similar tone. (I honestly completed most of my article well before seeing his.) Great minds think alike.
Stay stoked!
Neal Miyake
