Ben Aipa, ripping back in 1998 when he was a sprightly 56.
This past year, my loving wife threw me a Yakudoshi party, a traditional Japanese celebration of a man's 41st birthday (more a local Hawaii custom nowadays). Legend has it that this is a year of danger for men, when their bodies start to show their age and change for the worse. Well, it seems that this legend may be legit.
I have incurred a recent slew of aches and pains (not to mention the receding hairline) that I'd rather not whine too much about. Suffice to say, my body is indeed changing for the worse. I feel creakier nowadays, especially after a long surf session. And impact shock (from a bad wipeout, for instance) is taking longer and longer to recover from.
The old man and the sea, and his family
The truth of the matter is that I still think of myself as a kid. Maybe it is the *slightly* immature attitude I convey, but I still don't feel over 40, and definitely don't act it. It even still kind of tickles me that parents sometime refer to me as "man" to their kids (although admittedly I’ve gotten used to it).
Maybe I'm just finally gaining more insight, but it isn't just me who feels this way. I've come to realize that people generally don't think they are as old as they really are.
Ben doesn't realize he can buy coffee for $0.50 at McDonalds
I heard that a long time ago my grandmother passed in front of the picture window at Ishihara Market on Kauai and saw an old lady in the reflection in the glass. She couldn't believe that the image was her because in her mind she was still a young girl of 15. My grandmother was 70 at the time!
So what the heck does this all have to do with surfing? Well, my theory is that we surfers, more than any group of people, tend to cling to our youth. At the same time, I would submit that surfing actually does keep us younger - or at least younger at heart - than the rest of the populace.
Rabbit Kekai's secret to longevity is healthy rabbit food!
When I talk to old time surfers like Ben Aipa (64), Peter Cole (75), or even the venerable Rabbit Kekai (85), yes they are advancing in years. But there is still that sparkle in their eye, stoked about their last session, or looking forward to the next swell.
For me, the reality is that age is starting to take its toll on my body (and yes, I've heard people tell me "wait until you turn 50, or 60, or 'whatever age'"). I can't do everything I used to do in the water. However, it is *not* from a lack of desire.
George Downing and Peter Cole, still arguing over whose wave was bigger during the swell of '69
Peter Cole once gave me some sagely commentary: "When we got worse (at surfing), we accepted it, where a lot of (other) guys got worse, they quit. I think that’s the reason why most people quit is they got to where they weren’t doing very well and they didn’t like it."
I can (now) accept growing older. I will continue to strive to improve and challenge myself in the water, but this will be tempered with the understanding that my skills will eventually diminish over time. People (myself included) don't want to grow old - they just do.
Old school sponger
So you young groms out there, when you see an "elderly-type" waverider, trying to stroke into one, don’t drop in on him/her. They don't expect charity, but at the same time, let them catch a few. Who knows, in a few decades it might be you jockeying with the kids of the future.
Anyway, giving waves to old guys brings good karma (especially if that old guy is me). ;)
Stay stoked!
Neal Miyake
