There is a Hawaii we know. Right now we are still struggling to get it back. The good news is that there were some kind of ridable waves almost everyday this month on the Northshore. They weren't great waves, but they were waves.
Lanis was the hot spot, but the swells tended to have too much East in them ranging from NNE to ENE making for some kinda side shoulder type stuff and wind swell type conditions where the waves were breaking too close together a lot of the time. It even got up to 5 feet + on a couple days.
The water has cleared up, but is not totally clean in the country. It's great to be able to look out and see the reef shining through the water surface again, but when you go in you will sometimes still see a film on the top. When the swells come, it still gets a bit murky and stirred up from the bottom.
It looks like north shore surf may be on its way to hibernation with no real swells in sight for the future. The water and air temperature has been really cold for Hawaii this time of year.
Sharks closed the beaches once again this month. A total of 4 sharks were spotted at Lanis; two were said to have been around 6-8 feet and the two others close to 13 feet.
Not a shark
Town has had small-medium, swells that have also been quite consistent, if you dared. I don't think you can surf the south shore without feeling somewhat violated by the 48 million gallons of sewage spilling out that you can still smell in some areas. Though signs finally came down at Bowls for memorial day weekend, the lack of surfers in the water still tells the story. Media and government officials tend to be sweeping it under the rug as if all is back to normal, but for local surfers who are experiencing it first hand, it is anything but normal.
Sewage Sign at Ala Moana Beach
The scene at Bowls is like something I have never experienced, eerie to some extent. The normally packed parking lot now offers a stall of your choice. At the beginning of last month, there was a group of us, all standing around looking to each other for endorsement, you know like when the surf is big. It was one of those "are you going out?"
We all coaxed each other to reclaim our territory, and in some sense our lives, but the minute we hit the water, a stench coming from the boat harbor was more than a reality check. Personally, I decided I would risk it for the perfect barreling 3-5 ft waves. I want to say I had a blast and made the most of it, but the truth is I was a lot more concerned with trying not to get any of the dark brown disgusting water in my mouth, matter of fact I was trying real hard not to put my head under (which is basically impossible).
Surfing in the perfect 3-5 waves that day was not fun, it was frustrating and sad to say the least. That night, I already had body aches all over and chills, then stomach pains and cramping accompanied this scenario over the next week and half. About 3 weeks later, just at the end of the month, I thought I would try it again, but knew, it was not back to normal since there were still only 5 guys in the line up, and almost all of them were tourist who I had never seen before.
Unfortunately, the pack of guys I had surfed with three weeks ago were nowhere to be seen. Had they gotten sick too, I wondered? Bottom line, if people weren't getting sick, they would be coming back and the line up would be getting more and more crowded again, instead of staying so scarce. Rumors are circulating about people getting staph infections, boils on their skin and the flu type condition I myself and several others have experienced.
Ala-Mo, not so brown
Though most of us would never let our tough exterior down to admit it, I think we are all realizing that a large part of the crowd we complain about surfing with at Bowls is actually more like family to us since we have all been surfing there together since we can remember. The surf spot to many of us is a home outside of home and we miss it, and we miss our friends who surf there with us. Some are already suggesting the idea, that it will never be the same.
Groups such as Surfrider are getting involved to make sure it will be; they have established a committee which meets every month to discuss the sewage spill and avoid future spills. I now understand why having groups like Surfrider are so important (www.surfrider.org/oahu). Surfers can stay informed about water quality and REPORT ILLNESSES THEY HAVE OBTAINED FROM POLLUTED WATER on the site. Our information and involvement as surfers and beach goers will help support their pursuit of preserving our surf.
The Local Motion Surf Into Summer decided to move their Annual Surf Contest to Sandy Beach and avoid Bowls this year.
As if we didn't have enough affecting our ocean and surf breaks, an oil spill occurred 1.5 miles off Barber's Point dumping two thousand gallons of crude oil. They said it wasn't enough to cause any problems for humans or sea life though.
A large earthquake off Tonga put Oahu and the islands in jeopaardy of a Tsunami. A warning was sent out, but then cancelled soon after. Some schools closed down for the day.
Clear waters of Tonga
Turtle Bay's plan to build 5 resorts near Kawela Bay is really stirring things up in the community. A new organization called "Keep the Northshore Country" (keepthenorthshorecountry.org) is currently building a case against the company to stop the project. Both the builders and the surfers seem pretty determined on this one. It should be interesting to see the outcome.
Turtle Bay Resort in the background
A woman surfer was seriously injured after being run over by a kayaker. This incident challenged the question of zoning for our surf spots, but the idea didn't seem to get to far.
On a lighter note, the nightlife is gradually gaining strength on the North shore. Matty Liu threw a Cinco De Mayo Party this month at Turtle Bay. The Banzai Sushi joint behind Patagonia has a cool Hawaiian Reggae type band on Sundays and then there's always Breakers on Saturday. Plus, Kainoa's always has entertainment for a good local crowd. Ola's at Turtle Bay is becoming a hot spot for dinner or drinks. Its a nice restaurant which sits right on the beach.
At this point most surfers seem to have taken the Travel option, but that's normal anyways. Fred Patacchia took second at the WCT in Tahiti. Indo is a hot spot for sure this year. Sean Davey just came back from a trip there along with Jamie O'Brien who was working on wrapping up his new surf video.
Mentawais, Indonesia
The tourist still see Hawaii as a hot spot, and are coming by the droves despite the current struggles. Waikiki seems as busy as ever.
Aerial of Honolulu
Aloha,
by Lane Davey
Plumeria
