Brennan Boudreau, kicking it at Kewalos
For the record, I like amateur surfing. Although I was a pretty lousy contest surfer in my day, competitive surfing was good to me in many different ways. I think that the spirit of competitive surfing, especially amateur surfing, is a positive thing that is good for the kids. Could it overtake soccer as the most popular youth activity in Hawaii? We'll see.
The separate issue of the sheer number of surf contests in Hawaii is garnering lots of attention. I'll save this discussion for another day. For now, let's focus on the institute of amateur surfing itself, by first looking at a bit of history.
Ever since its resurgence in the 50s, surfing was viewed as quite the renegade pursuit, going against culture's work ethics and values. Surfers many times were stereotyped by society as slackers and druggies (see Jeff Spicoli).
Amateur surf contests were smaller productions back in the day (circa 1989)
However, the professionalism of surfing, along with such things as the rise of Kelly Slater the pop icon, the Blue Crush phenomenon and X-Games alternative sports, have all helped push surfing towards more mainstream acceptance. Nowadays, many companies, even those outside the surf industry, promote the surfing lifestyle to sell their products (commercialism may also be another future point of discussion).
Some surfers are now making legitimate pro surfing careers, with the top-tier guys pulling down close to a million dollars annually. All of a sudden, this hedonistic pursuit of ours has become a potentially lucrative career path. As in any professional sport, however, the reality is that only a select few can make a living out of it. But that doesn't stop kids from dreaming.
Ola Eleogram is carving out a pro surfing career
Even Hawaii's Department of Education (DOE) has acknowledged the popularity of surfing, allowing public high schools to establish competitive surf teams. And for good reason.
Just like soccer or Little League, getting into a structured, competitive athletic environment reaps much more benefits than the pride of winning a plastic trophy. The obvious physical fitness benefits goes without saying. However, the kids also learn competitiveness, communication, goal-setting, sacrifice, camaraderie, etc.--legitimate social skills that they can apply in life (beneficial especially to so-called at-risk kids.)
More than just plastic trophies
But this environment didn't just happen overnight. It takes the combined efforts of many people and groups to build a solid structure. In that sense, we in Hawaii are lucky since we have some great, longstanding organizations such as HASA (Hawaii Amateur Surfing Association), whose roots go back to the HSF (Hawaii Surfing Federation) and even the HSA (Hawaii Surfing Association) of the 60s. We also have NSSA (National Scholastic Surfing Association) Hawaii, which focuses on academic achievement.
Also, there are some outstanding individuals such as Buffalo Keaulana, China Uemura, Rabbit Kekai, and others, who provide opportunities and outlets for the keiki (the grommets) by holding their own contests. With groups and people like this, the amateur surfing environment continues to improve.
Coach Donald Pahia, HASA director Wendell Aoki, and photographer/judge Bernie Baker ham it up at the 2006 HASA state championships
I talked story with Wendell Aoki, director for HASA on the recent changes in amateur surfing in Hawaii. Wendell said, "Parents are becoming more supportive now, where families from around the island are coming out to support the kids. And it’s a great atmosphere."
"Many of the parents used to compete when they were kids," Wendell continued, "and instead of sitting on the beach all day watching their kids, they are entering the older surfing divisions. So it becomes a family affair."
Nowadays, the whole family comes out to cheer
It doesn't get more family than NSSA director Bobbi Lee, mother of local ripper (contest surfer) Rory Parker. Her NSSA embraces academics as a mandate for participation. Of course, the big payoff for NSSA surfers is the opportunity to surf in the national championships at the fabled Trestles in California.
Master shaper and surf coach Ben Aipa has been in the competition scene from its inception, and is stoked at the direction of amateur surfing. "Surfing is finally being looked at as a true sport now which a lot of people didn't acknowledge before. And when we got all these associations (HASA, NSSA, etc.) that started promoting and running contests with the parents behind them, it just legitimizes the sport even more."
Get island pride too--FBI, From Big Island
Veteran photographer and surf judge Bernie Baker also has noticed a change in the attitudes of today's young surfers: "The kids are more educated, more focused, and they seem to be just happier people. You can tell by the way they compete against each other. They're not out there trying to do the other one in; they're out there to do their best."
When asked why the attitude adjustment, Bernie said, "I think life evolves and life changes, and the kids don't want to know about what's being called 'old school.' They're not a part of old school. Hey, it's OK to get really good grades; it's OK to be a really good person; it's OK to go out and win."
Throw down that entry fee, slap on a contest jersey, and have fun
So all you soccer moms and dads out there, surfing may not be an ideal career path for most of your kids. However, just like in other sports, many life skills can be had just from participation, especially if you are willing to hit the lineup with them.
Stay stoked!
Neal Miyake
