This guy only goes right, that guy waits for the sets...
In my first installment of "The Lineup" series, I talked about how greetings may mean more than just a "howzit." Once you establish yourself out there however, there's even more to ponder and analyze.
Sad to say it, but waves are many times considered "commodities." There are only so many quality waves that come through a lineup on any given day, so the economic theory of supply and demand comes into play.
Because of this, when you hit a lineup what you should try and do is "read" the people. Try and understand what type of rider each of them are. Surfing is admittedly a selfish pursuit, and the less waves other people catch, the more opportunities for you (will expand on this in a future article).
Spot these guys first - the beginners
When reading the people in a lineup, the first ones to look for are the beginners. They are easy to spot: awkward paddling, funny stances, out of position, missing waves. I know we've all been there, and it is important to encourage people to surf, but there is a time and a place to be selfish also.
If you are a beginner, understand that there are hierarchies in the lineup that need to be respected. You need to build a certain level of competence before attempting more challenging surf breaks. (I admittedly am also a rank beginner when it comes to some waveriding disciplines and some spots.)
Rather than let waves go to waste, you can take advantage of having beginners in the lineup by deftly catching all the ones they miss or avoid - again, more waves for you.
The polar opposite of the beginner is the alpha male (or female). Usually one of the most proficient surfers out, the alpha male will have that confidence and cocksure attitude in the lineup that intentionally intimidates.
Randall Paulson, one of the alpha males at Pipeline
I've sometimes stupidly tangled with the top dogs of the lineups (not with Randall - he's a friend), and it has invariably caused more tension than it was worth. But no one ever accused my male ego of being very smart.
I'm not here to tell you what to do. It really depends what gives you the most satisfaction. Nowadays I prefer to avoid the hassles and keep it positive. Must be I'm finally growing up.
Then there are the inside/outside sitters. Some people just prefer to cruise the inside or on the shoulder, catching the leftovers or smaller waves. Others like to hang outside waiting for the bigger sets, especially stodgy old longboarders like my buddy Peter Cole. Their positioning limits them to catching only certain waves, so there should be opportunities for you with other waves, if you position yourself away from them accordingly.
Groms everywhere!
The groms are all over the place, catching everything and anything without regard to the unwritten rules. Either try and avoid their zeal or "tune" (scold) them as needed.
Finally, there's "Only go left" and his twin brother "Only go right." If the lineup is a peak surf break and you are sharing the lineup with one of these guys (like me, who rides frontside 90% of the time), take advantage of the situation and go the opposite direction. Coordination is important with this one - asking the other surfer which way he's going may open up the other half of the wave to you.
In summary, if you understand the strengths, weaknesses, and idiosyncrasies of the people in the lineup, you'll hopefully have more opportunities to catch waves. Oh, and don't forget to reflect inward and "read" yourself too. Understand the kind of waverider you are - it will inevitably help you score some good waves.
Stay stoked!
Neal Miyake
Don't forget to steer clear of the crazies in the lineup! :)
