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Saturday, July 4, 2009

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Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life :: False Starts Before the Guns Sparks

False Starts Before the Guns Sparks

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Hawaii's Winter season 2006 might resemble a set of false starts for surfers. Small surf and then forecasted swells that never really materialized time after time again. For a surfer, who has to be physically, mentally and spiritually prepared to surf big waves, it is frustrating to come to the beach everyday to find out its another false start because, like a runner coming out of the blocks, it can kill your momentum.

Bonga Perkins
Bonga Perkins

To add to the anxiety, surf and buoy reports have been extremely inconsistent this year. As we speak I am looking at 4 different reports which say four different things and buoy reports that don't match what I see at the beach. I have to say however, as long as it took and as weird as it was, December delivered! The Bay only broke once for about 2 hours in the 18 ft range, but it was really stormy wild and all over the place, but the Pipeline began to pop its head out during December.

It started with one 8-12 foot stormy swells and then several days of 6-8 foot surf with a couple days offering 10 ft sets and one day breaking out on the second reef. The 4-6 foot days in between those swells were pretty fun with really clean conditions so something for everyone in the country not to mention the solid 3-5 ft+ town swell Santa sent us just before Christmas which had the whole north shore circus taking their act to Ala Moana. I couldn't believe it when I drove up on Dec 18 and saw a solid 6 ft plus set almost close out the channel at the Big Bowl. It was almost as good as anything we had summer. wow.

Ala Moana Bowls
Ala Moana Bowls

The Triple Crown Season was like none other. It definitely feels as if surfing as a sport has hit the mainstream for spectators who crowded around to watch at each and every leg of the events. Pro surfers even had fans who held up signs with their names them. It was kinda funny. As I wondered why, suddenly so much hoopla, I found a tourist magazine listing NORTH SHORE in big letters on the cover under the title "top 100 things to do in Oahu on vacation". After that I noticed several more of these mags publicizing the north shore. What they fail to mention is that the traffic is getting so bad it can take two hours to get down the hill from Wahiawa to Pipeline on big days and that's not even good big days. Its not that I'm against the tourists, its just that we don't have the capacity to facilitate them out here; the traffic, the parking, it just doesn't exist for the publicity the North Shore is getting these days as a top tourist spot.


Rockpiles
Rockpiles

Despite all the congestion it was a great year for local surfers. Kauai boy Andy Irons won the OP Pro the Rip Curl Pipe Masters and the Triple Crown meanwhile west side wahine Melanie Bartels took the Roxy Pro at Sunset Beach. Rumor has it Keala Kennely who was awarded 2nd at the Billabong Pro has retired from the tour at least for next year giving Rochelle Ballard who missed making the WCT by one slot an open door to return next year. 16 local Pipe specialist were seeded into the Pipemasters this year instead of 2 thanks to the Hawaii Pro surfers Union lead by Liam McNamara.

Roy Powers
Roy Powers

Kalani Chapman
Kalani Chapman

Jesse Merle Jones
Jesse Merle Jones

The photographers were just as busy as the surfers during the Triple Crown attending Cannons series of annual events. After photog night there were several meetings and workshops hosted by Amy Kwadler and several other guest speakers to help get our surf photographers updated on the newest models, programs and information on digital photography.

The Northshorians are still fighting their battle against the Turtle Bay Development. There have been meetings in the country and Surfrider is hosting one in town tomorrow to "break the silence" about what's been going on out here. Sipping Jet Streams, a new film by Taylor Steel with photography by Dustin Humphrey hosted two events in support of the efforts to stop the North Shore development. We are also currently fighting to win back Kahuku Hospital who recently claimed chapter 11 due to a lack of funds. Legendary women surfer Karen Gallagher has started her own magazine called Paumalu which brings awareness to these and several other issues that are now such a big concern here on the north shore.

Aerial of Turtle Bay
Aerial of Turtle Bay

Eddie Vedder
Eddie Vedder

We were not lacking entertainment this month either. After the Eddie Aikau opening ceremonies Eddie Vedder and Pearl Jam played at Waimea Falls Park in a very intimate invite only setting with around 200 surfers ranging from MR to Ben Aipa and Kelly Slater who played on stage with the group. A week later U2 held a concert with Pearl Jam at Aloha Stadium in Pearl City which was almost totally full. It seemed like everyone was there, even surfers who had to compete the next day. Billy Joel also played in Honolulu and the Pointer Sisters came to ring in the New Year.

Pipeline
Pipeline

The future looks bright with a solid 15 ft WNW predicted for tomorrow and more surf for the weekend. The Haleiwa International is on and the bodyboarders are on tap with two contests in the first two weeks of January. The Bank of Hawaii Tow In Championships are also in their holding period along with the Eddie Aikau.

On your mark, Get Set, Stay tuned!

- by Lane Davey

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fred — Monday, April 9, 2007
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