Lowah centah gravity mo bettah, brah! Stick to board like urchin. Been surfin' all along for last 50 years. Lived in Ma'ili and downtown from '66 to '72. Also in those little apts. next to A-Frame houses. One-armed caretaker, Mad John. Surfed lots there. Now, no more than 6, 8, maybe 10 foot wave. Best place for me now is Makaha. Nice wave, soft shoulder for old man! Tong's, Old Man's, Queen's, Canoes, Poplars, two's, three's, maybe Ala Moana if feeling brave. Surf on!!!
kuhioboy: Sounds like you got many precious surfing memories. That's what it's all about. Kinda like good fish stories, only mo' better. Stay healthy and keep riding. Maybe I'll see you out at Old Man's one day soon.