The first two weeks of October was so lagging, no surf on north or south shores; it seemed like dejavue from last year. Then I read on Pat Caldwells surf report that this would be a La Nina season which means smaller than average surf and slim chance of giant surf episodes.
I was thinking, isnt that what we had last year and even the year before? I sure hope Caldwell is wrong on this one, but this month has definitely been lacking. Fortunately, nobody is complaining about the couple weeks we had of 3-4 ft waves late in the month. The swells have been sort of windy, choppy and NNW. One of the biggest swells turned more straight north and was rumored to have had some freak 6- 8 foot sets at Lanis and Rockpiles, but that only lasted for a few hours.
Beaches on Maui were closed oct 21 due to shark sightings. On the Northshore Monk seals have been sunbathing at backdoor and other famous surf locations. Pro surfer sightings seem to be in earlier than usual. It seems too soon to have the unknown rippas at our local spots in their shiny new clothes before the waves have even really started, but then again the Xcel Pro is already underway 10/27, so I guess its about that time.
There are some more moderate swells forecasted for next week and some town surf which is really promising. For me it seems like you have to have that last town whopper swell before the country can really get going, its like a sort of a pattern that sets up.
A few of the Hawaii guys are headed off to Tahiti to catch the south swell. Flynn Novak and a few other Hawaiian guys just came back from a 6 star event in the Canary Islands where they placed pretty well I also heard about a barrel riding contest in the Phillipines that a few of the boys went to.
Still no word if our local guys will get there Pipe event this year, but some are just as happy to have less contests this season freeing the break up more since last year was so overloaded especially with the lack of surf.
Pancho Sullivan placed 2nd at the U.S Open so requlaifying for the tour next year is looking good for him.
Founder of Save our Surf Hawaii, John Kelly passed away and will have a memorial service held on Nov.18th. George Downing is taking over his position with the organization.
Local Surfer and Activist, Tony Agao held a lovely fundraiser for Jeannie Chesser at TreeTops restaurant up Manoa with local bands, some who actually surf the Bowl with Jeannie. Some killer boards were donated and auctioned off. The whole T&C family was there along with Jones family, Keoni Downing and many others.
The Menehune contest was held at Haleiwa this month. The kids had some pretty decent waves for the event considering the current averages, but the surf was still smaller than usual.
The Volcom boys are totally pimpin this season now that they have two houses instead of one and the new one which was newly renovated seems to be the pick of choice since the noise has shifted from one side of the path to the other.
I think what we are all really thinking is BRING THE NOISE while we wait to hear the waves echo through the sand again and get this surf season underway.
