When the waves get over 8’ on the North Shore, I surf Puaena Point. It’s a D-list spot that for some bathymetric reason, tames down swell size so that aged geezers like me can still hit the surf without drowning. PP sits on the north edge of the Haleiwa Boat Harbor channel and the wave breaks right along it. So, when you’re sitting in the lineup between sets, you see every imaginable type of ocean craft going out and coming in.
On December 28th, 2005, the late Jimmy Hall and his crew encountered this immense 20’ Great White Shark off of Haleiwa. The incident sent shockwaves throughout Hawaii and the world, and put Hawaii Shark Encounters and shark tourism on the map overnight. Photo: Courtesy of Hawaii Shark EncountersConspicuous amongst the motorized flotsam are the North Shore commercial shark tour boats. You can’t miss them because they have the steel dive cages winched up aft, not a very comforting sight while your legs dangle nakedly in the dark morning water. I’d glare scornfully at the boats as they passed, sure that from 300’ away, they’d catch the drift that I didn’t approve of their presence. You see, these operations aren’t very popular with North Shore surfers, divers, and other ocean users because we’re all convinced that they’re responsible for the rise in local shark populations and increased attacks. The kicker, we all thought, was that they were profiting handsomely from it, and endangering many for the profit of only a few. The nerve!
Are the unnatural, learned feeding behaviors introduced by man be detrimental to the shark’s predatory instincts, and consequently, its crucial role in the ocean’s ecosystem? Can a few decades of interaction with man affect eons of evolutionary imprinting? Photo: Chuck BabbittState DLNR shark expert Randy Honebrink has this opinion on the issue. “Regarding behavior, I (and others) suspect feeding sharks reduces their normal predatory activity, and as a result they're not filling their natural niche roles in nearshore ecosystems. Sharks are out there for a reason, and altering their behavior can't be a good thing,” he said. In addition to Randy’s sentiment, I’ve always disagreed vigorously with people’s need for physical interaction with wild animals, especially those braggarts who’re compelled to ride ostriches, wild horses, dolphins, whales, and sharks. The shark riders are especially repulsive because they seem to be more into showing off than anything else. The mantra I always recite to my kids is “Look at nature, but don’t touch.”
I’ve been read the riot act in this column previously for not offering the “defendants” an opportunity to counter. So, after talking to opponents of commercial shark tours, I contacted Hawaii Shark Encounters to get their side of this ultra-controversial issue. The owner, Stephanie Brendl, was eager to meet and educate me on what they do on these dives and to dispel many of the myths surrounding shark tourism in the islands. She invited me to join her on an outing, and I (gulp) agreed to experience it first hand.
In the open ocean chop, my eyes eagerly scanned the surface for signs of them. You are isolated and surrounded by raw nature and its guardians, and the anticipation is almost unbearable. A great feeling!So one windy early July morning, I hopped on her boat, and we set out for the 4 mile marker outside of Haleiwa Harbor. As we traversed the bulbous swells and spray, Stephanie started right in on me about what many people misunderstand about her operations’ main intentions. “We want to educate people on how and why sharks are important to the ocean, how their numbers are declining around the world, and the need to protect them. The best way to appreciate sharks is to see them up close and in the wild. But we are not out here to start a feeding frenzy for show. The sharks are free to come and go as they please.” Her sensibility and pragmatism relaxed me, as we arrived at a small offshore buoy and tied in.
Like an ascending submarine, a 12’+ Tiger Shark came in to see what the commotion was all about. You cannot truly fathom the sheer size and beauty of this great fish without seeing it in the flesh. I’m just glad I was in a boat and not sitting on my surfboard when I did!Almost immediately, the boat was being circled by smaller reef sharks. They’re stunningly fast and fluid. All the tourists moved to the rear of the boat as a deckhand sloshed some palu (chum) into the water. I hung back to give the paying customers more space to see them. As I stood alone along the port side, a great gray/green shape materialized and surfaced a few feet from me. It was a big female Tiger Shark who’d come to investigate. I was simultaneously terrified and mesmerized by her huge girth as she cruised through and parted the smaller sharks darting around the palu slick. She even stuck her head out of the water and strafed the side of the boat, a major thrill for all aboard. My heart was pounding, and I couldn’t wait to get into the cage with my little $8 Longs Drugs disposable camera deal. Stephanie said it was uncommon for Tigers to appear on these dives, so I felt very fortunate to be there.
630am, howling trade winds, four miles offshore, in 400’+ of crystal clear blue water, surrounded by sharks … YES!!! Life all comes down to a few moments, and this was one of them.Finally, it was my turn to get in the cage. Trembling, I pulled a dive mask on, advanced my film, steadied my breathing, and plopped in. It was quiet as the first of the smaller sharks materialized out of the deep and like aquarium fish do for some people, put me in a dreamlike, almost hypnotic state. That all ended when the Tiger swam by and jolted me back into reality. She moved deliberately, with such a profound dignity and sense of belonging. I was immediately humbled by the animal’s size and flawless physical adaptation. Enraptured, the primal fear receded. There was no sentiment, no malice, no intent, just … being. Soon, another even larger one joined the festivities and I just completely relaxed and took it all in. Like Stephanie had told me earlier, you have to see them in the wild to appreciate their magnificence and almost telepathically, the shark influences upon you a protective attitude towards them.
Like the North Shore’s reigning Queen, this large female Tiger Shark graced our dive with an extended visit. She was enormous, strikingly marked, and moved with a stateliness that just added to the impact of her already rare appearance. We were eventually called out of the cage and after removing our gear and being seated on deck, me and the other guests sat slowly scanning the others on the boat, looking at each other and Stephanie in a kind of strange but knowing silence. There was really nothing to say after an overwhelming experience like that, and the crew was smart enough to let the pregnant moment play out. As the boat began its return to shore, Stephanie regaled the group on the ecology of sharks, endangerment and the need for conservation, and their significance in local culture.. Hanging on her every word, the tourists were attentive and curious, and I sat secure in the notion that this operation had all the best intentions; to squash the myths and over-hyped public fear of sharks, educate people on the important role they play in nature, and their place in the Hawaiian ethos and folklore. I remember thinking that the whole operation was about teaching (not showiness), conducted professionally, and always with a respect for the animals and environment.
She kept slowly passing back and forth in front of the cage, and really eyeing us up. Now I know what a live Lobster in a restaurant tank feels like!I’m pretty good at spotting phonies, and was relieved to find that Stephanie had a sincere and genuine passion for sharks and the ocean. She provided me with a boatload (no pun intended) of written testimonials from past tour guests who swore a new attitude and allegiance to help protect sharks after their dive experiences. She even apologized to me on several occasions for chattering incessantly about her love for the animals. With complete candor, Stephanie added, “And, you know …I do have to make a living too.” I appreciated that fully, and was glad that an erudite and responsible person was part of the industry here. Yep, these dive tours are kept busy, but they’re not getting filthy rich either, as operational costs alone cut into any appreciable margins they might yield. Nonetheless, I’m just hopeful that other out-of-town hotdogs don’t barge in and spoil the intimacy and control management that only two operators offer the experience and community.
As someone who recreates in the ocean quite often, I would be hard pressed to blame shark tours for increased populations or recent attacks, and to my knowledge, no comprehensive scientific evidence has been presented publicly to affirm this theory. I mean after all, unless a shark sits down for an interview with a reporter, there’s no way anyone can or should speak on their behalf. Until then, it’s all assumptive. At the time of this writing, two people have been attacked by sharks on the east sides of the Big Island and Oahu (no dive tours out there), and local print media blogs are filled with indignant Simpletons calling for any/all sharks to be killed in retaliation. Ugghh …. it really is unbelievable how shortsighted these individuals are. They’re the very ones whose ignorance of these animals could be erased forever by a short boat ride.
A truly breathtaking sight that’s burned into my memory banks forever. When might one say their life is complete? After meeting these two beauties up close and personal, I feel a little closer to that achievement.Aloha and thanks to Stephanie Brendl and her crew for their generosity and accomodation. It was an educational and spiritual day that I hope everyone can experience at least once in their lifetimes. For more info, go to the Hawaii Shark Encounters and Stephanie’s new SharkAllies links:
