September started out with a killer town swell, one of the best all summer. It was solid 3-5 with a few bigger ones and was more consistent than some of the earlier swells we had. The southeast direction of the swell was a bit off for Ala Moana bowls, but #3s down the way was said to be "all time" . The Northshore came back to life a little bit, but we are still anxiously awaiting some solid waves out here since there hasn't been anything over 4 ft since last spring.
The Shark factor has surfers adrenaline pumping this month. After Great Whites were spotted just outside beaches in Kailua and on the Big Island an attack occurred at Crouching Lion on the East side of Oahu. Forty year old surfer Todd Murashige suffered a pretty menacing attack on his leg, but is expected to recover. The Advertiser reported that Todd had to pry the 18-22 inch sharks head open to save himself and the surfer was questioning the idea of whether he will ever surf again. Todd is a well known top amateur surfer in the islands. Were all pulling for you Todd!
On the Northshore sharks have been spotted on a regular basis at Gas chambers chomping turtles and one was just off the beach in Waialua as well. Sharks frequent Ala Moana bowls in town due to the large juicy Ala Wai channel that parallels the break.
Small sharks have been spotted just inside the channel all month which wasn't a big deal until a 12 ft tiger appeared inside the surfers at what we call Boscos Bowl and seemed to scare some guys in. Our friend went on the shark boat recently and said that their were big tigers attacking the cage which is unusual since they typically see less aggressive sharks on the tour. I have been thinking about one time when some locals talked about old Hawaii mentioning that every 6 years their was a season that the Hawaiians did not go in the ocean due to the sharks. I am not sure whether it was a spiritual ritual or if it was a breeding season, but ironically it seems like about 6 years ago when we had this same type of shark influx. I dont know if their is any scientific evidence or historical evidence to it but it does seem to somehow make sense.
The Ala Wai parking problem has adopted a board which will meet once every so often to make sure boat owners and the public have a stake in the proper use of the boat harbour. Defend Oahu Coalition is still fighting the good fight to Keep the Country Country however rumor has it that Turtle Bay is adding two more lanes that go to the hotel in order to extend their permit for five more hotles. hmmm, interesting. Hawaiii governor Linda Lingle is on the mainland campaigning against Hawaiian born Barack Obama for the republican ticket.
Heavywater magazine partnered up with Defend Oahu Coalition to host NEON, a surf benefit at Pipeline Cafe which was a wild surf party that brought about 1500 people through the door. Breakers has been hosting Jazz every Sunday and they had a band play at Waimea this month. UH Manoa also hosted a Jazz festival. You guessed it, yes another SUP demo or a few of them this month; no wonder there are so many people jumping on board.
Bayvi Clothing Co. hosted a free photoshoot and contest at Kaisers to elevate local surfers. The contest offers a double page spread to the surfer who gets the best photo. Ace Cool swam around Oahu for blue water this month. He did a 100 mile swim in different segments over 10-11 days. I guess he is in shape for winter now! Thanks for staying active ACE!
Hawaiian wahine Melanie Bartels won the Billabong Pro in Rio!!
We lost a beloved and respected brother named Lester Falatea this month. If you surfed big waves on the Northshore there is a good chance you knew Lester. He was a Samoan guy with a big smile and a comforting laugh who charged some of the biggest waves at Pipe, Sunset and Waimea on his Longboard. Lester worked as a steward for Hawaiian Airlines and would bring his cel phone out to the line up on huge days in case he got called into work. I remember the first day I saw him with the cel phone and I couldn't believe it, but that is just one example of how Lester ignited one of the most intense line ups in the world with his humor and humility rather than his ego. When surfers attended his service at the Laie Mormon church most of us did not know he had joined the preisthood and most of the clergy did not know Lester was an such an extreme surfer, but we all loved Lester. He was one of kind.
He leaves behind a wife, four children and a family of eleven. He died of a genetic heart defect which took him pretty much instantly.
Lester's paddle out service which was held at 6am had a large attendance of surfers from a variety of lifestyles. I think surfers who came from all different walks of life felt unified through sharing in the incredible ceremony. Friends all left with a hot pink sticker that states "Live Like Les" so I hope it will help remind us to live laugh and love when we are out in the surf this winter and truely enjoy our time in the water! Aloha 'oe Lester!
