In the 1960’s and early 1970’s, life on the North Shore of Oahu was a crude, minimal, and bohemian existence for both resident and visiting surfers. Poverty, drugs, vegetarianism, sponging, odd jobs, meditation, hitchhiking, transiency, and lots and lots of water time were the call for the plucky few who sacrificed creature comforts in exchange for close proximity to the world’s greatest waves.  The surfing mentality back then served harmony with the ocean and elements, style and flow, arcing power glides, and cool poise in critical situations.  Gerry Lopez, Barry Kanaiaupuni, Reno Abellira, Jeff Hakman, and Eddie Aikau were the eminent surfers of the time.  There were a few half-serious contests here and there, but for the most part competition got the low brow treatment. 

Then along comes 1975 and a loosely associated group of ambitious, energetic young surfers from Australia and South Africa begin to make their mark on the international scene.  Collectively, they target the North Shore and its limited competitions to see, initially for themselves, if they could make an impact on surfing as sport and occupation.  New and fresh energy, radical and innovative surfing, and a yearning for organized professional surfing filled the spirits of young upstart Aussies Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew, Ian Cairns, Mark Richards, Peter Townend, South African cousins Shaun and Michael Tomson, and a supporting cast. These six held point in altering the manner in which big Hawaiian surf was ridden, bringing a fresh and spontaneous approach to the expansive wave faces, validating the new surfboard design concepts that allowed it, and ultimately cultivating a seething, uncompromising drive to make a career as touring professional athletes.   



As in any sport, youth must ultimately be served. But it was no cakewalk for these guys, as both they and the North Shore surfing community took some heavy shots at each other in the media and in the surf.  Hawaiian surfers were put off by the impetuous and aggressive attitudes in the water, and to further compound the problem, Rabbit, Ian, and PT had put out some flippant, boastful diatribes in magazine articles and interviews that may have been justifiably perceived as arrogant, culturally insensitive, and a direct challenge to Hawaiian surfing customs and pride.  Rabbit and Ian penned articles called “Bustin’ Down The Door”, “We’re Number One!”, and “Aloha Is Dead” in widely read surfing publications.  The articles were arguably true, but an ill-advised symbolic finger in the eye of ultra proud Hawaiians. The negative discourse and repercussions inflicted on the Australians and South African surfers were swift and ominous, sometimes deserved, sometimes not.  This was a major sporting story (regardless of sport), that got very little exposure outside of surfing, and what did trickle out may not have been completely accurate or impartial.


And so, I was delighted to hear in early 2008 that a feature length film documenting this dramatic period called “Bustin’ Down The Door” (the phrase coined by Bartholomew) would be released in the summer, and the true story told through the eyes and words of those who lived it over three decades ago.  I asked Director Jeremy Gosch and Executive Producer and featured co-star Shaun Tomson about the movie and production, their motives and message, and public reaction to their film.


Gosch does surf, riding his first wave in Waikiki while here appearing in an early episode of Magnum P.I. as a child actor, and he’s been working in the film industry since he was 20.  I asked him how and when the idea for the movie was spawned.  “Shaun and I have been trying to get various projects off the ground for a few years before this came about, but I initially reached out to him in 2006.  Of course he loved the idea and thought we had to call it “Bustin’ Down The Door.”  We shot for a little over two weeks on Oahu during the 2006 Triple Crown season on a shoestring budget. Shaun made all the initial contacts for the interviews.  All the guys were cool and gracious with their time, and were great to work with.  We really wanted to interview a few more guys, especially Gerry, Reno, Mike Ho, and Dane Kealoha, but with our tight shooting schedule and limited production budget, we weren’t able to hook up with them,” he said.


As opposed to waiting for the DVD release as I did for other recent “big budget” surf films, I made an absolute point of going to see Bustin’ Down The Door in a big screen theatre with some longtime surfing buddies.  I recall sitting in my seat completely spellbound, as classic images and voices from the past surged like near-death flashbacks across the screen.  A sweeping melancholy came over me, the warming nostalgia making for a riveting and visceral experience that ferried me back 30 years, back to a time I still wish had never ended. I left the theatre satiated, appreciative, and wanting more. So I purchased the DVD package last month, watched it repeatedly, and wanting to write about it here;
   
In my eyes, the film could be compartmentalized into four primary components;
1) Examining the formative years of its three main stars; Tomson, Richards, and Bartholomew, including recollections of early family life, first introductions to surfing, competition, each other, and their first few seasons on the North Shore. 
2) A thirst for competence in big Hawaiian conditions, recognition amongst their peers, and struggle for exposure and entrée into the prestigious North Shore big wave events.  
3) The chaos and hostility of the ’75 and ’76 winter seasons, where the physical laws of big wave surfing were revolutionized and a shared vision of professional surfing gained an early foothold. Where egos, ignorance, and retaliation reared their ugly heads and both literary and literal punches were exchanged. When the smoke finally clears, a nervous accord is reached between the warring factions and surfing has gained from the experience; performance surfing is progressing in leaps and bounds, surfers are legitimized as elite athletes and have the opportunity (albeit a scrawny one at the time) to make a career out of riding waves, and the Hawaiian locals have sent a clear and ominous warning to an attentive worldwide surfing community.
4)  Finally, surfers and observers reflect on their lives and the events of the time with a wistful and far away look in their eyes, a reckoning of the soul and spirit, and regret and gratitude for lessons learned about each other and surfing.

Bustin’ Down The Door crams a lot of information into its 95 minute runtime, but does so in a nicely flowing, carefully framed, but not overly handled manner.  The surfers and observers reveal themselves as thoughtful, introspective, and often humorous people.  They’re skillful raconteurs, offering intimate details and opinions that exceed the one or two sentence sound bites they’re shown on screen.  Having prominent Hollywood actor Edward Norton Jr. (himself an avid surfer) provide the narration for the movie was a major coup for Gosch and Tomson.  Norton volunteered his voice services after bumping into the two by chance.  His name and presence added mainstream credibility to the film and his narrative was pragmatic and evenly delivered.  Of course, the amazing archival footage and still photos are what really put a face to the story and flesh it out.  Other highlights of the film include Mike Tomson’s lean forward “I will surf till I die!” proclamation, Cairns’ obstinate then-and-now defiance, Eddie Rothman’s simultaneously coy and candid responses, two very poignant and emotional moments from Rabbit and Shaun, all the surfers’ heartfelt expressions of regret and undying passion and respect for surfing and each other, and the Off The Wall surfing sequence in the closing moments with Rabbit, Shaun, and MR, which has a funny twist;  according to Gosch, “When the guys were finished surfing, we were walking back to the car and ran into Ben Aipa (a respected Hawaiian surfboard designer). He was kinda freaking out, saying he was having a memory flashback seeing those three guys in that place it just took him back!”


I was very pleased to see Gosch and Tomson make a conscious effort to present the Hawaiian perspective on the conflict and actions that transpired.  “We wanted to include something I have never ever seen in a (surf) film about Hawaii,” Tomson affirmed,  “we managed to talk about what happened to Hawaii in the late 1800’s; how it was illegally annexed, how the indigenous Hawaiian people have suffered, and how there might be a rationale for their people’s behaviors.  It hadn’t been brought up before, and I think we handled it in a very pensive, respectful way.  I think for anyone that is born in Hawaii, whether they’re an indigenous Hawaiian or not, if they have that pride in their state, they can see a great representative like Clyde (Aikau) talk about it with authority and with passion.  I thought it was really great.”   

    
My interest in surfing notwithstanding, I would venture that Bustin’ Down The Door is one of the greatest, most expertly hewn sports documentaries ever made, regardless of the sport featured.  It’s compelling enough for anyone, surfer or not, to enjoy. “My wife is from Calgary, Canada; think Texas in Canada,” said Gosch, “We had a screening there when the temperature was minus 20 degrees outside and snowing and the theatre was basically full. The audience was great, it was almost as loud as seeing it in Newport Beach. So I think the story and the film crosses over to anybody, it’s a documentary that just happens to be about surfing.”  Every young surfer (especially aspiring professionals) should see the film as compulsory course study to fully absorb and appreciate the dumps, lumps, and bumps that this extraordinary generation endured to make all that is today’s ASP World Tour possible for them.

Gosch, Tomson, and their film received positive reviews and accolades wherever it played, and they’re both deservedly proud of their product. Gosch beamed on, “I think surfers are some of the coolest, most interesting people on Earth. The pursuit of surfing and the lifestyle that it brings just breeds great, interesting stories. At the core of the story it really is about having a dream to something you love more than anything else in the world and making it happen. I think that idea resonates with everyone, and then seeing it against the background of what happens on the North Shore. The great thing about this story is that it is timeless.”  Tomson added with conviction, “We wanted to just tell a story, a really good story, and a historically accurate story.  I think there have been a number of movies recently that have tried to rewrite history.  We just wanted to focus on just the birth of pro surfing, the pain associated with pro surfing, and also the good times.  I’m very proud of the movie … I’m very proud of it.”


Bustin’ Down The Door is available on DVD, which includes some very cool previously unreleased clips.  Buy, rent, or pay-per-view this movie gang, you won’t be sorry.  Next month, in an exclusive interview for Around Hawaii, the great Shaun Tomson walks us through his amazing life from childhood to present and dishes off other anecdotes about the movie, Hawaii, pro surfing, and the sport and lifestyle he covets.

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