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Friday, July 30, 2010

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Sports :: Surf :: Living the Surf Life :: True Blessing

True Blessing

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What a true blessing this season has been for Hawaiian surfers so far.

70's Hawaiian surf legend; Rory Russell
70's Hawaiian surf legend; Rory Russell

Here we are well into the month of January, 2010 and we've had waves since early August. We even had some hefty Pipe swells in August.

3 time Hawaiian world champion at Backdoor in October
3 time Hawaiian world champion at Backdoor in October

Jamie Obrien cruising the Pipe in November
Jamie Obrien cruising the Pipe in November

Craftsman surfboard Shaper; Wade Tokoro is also a ridiculously good surfer, here at huge Pipe in September.
Craftsman surfboard Shaper; Wade Tokoro is also a ridiculously good surfer, here at huge Pipe in September.

That's like six months of waves orrrrrready! You've gotta love that! especially after some of the less that perfect seasons that we've had in recent years.

The surf industry has shown that it's been licking it's financial wounds this year with far less team riders visiting our fair shores, but the local surfers are laughing all the way to the bank with all the perfect surf that we've been having.

Clark Abbey at perfect, perfect Sunset  in October.
Clark Abbey at perfect, perfect Sunset  in October.

Every dog has its day. Vals reef.
Every dog has its day. Vals reef.

Nathan Lorence at Backdoor in October
Nathan Lorence at Backdoor in October

Unidentified at Off The Wall, November
Unidentified at Off The Wall, November

The other noticeable drop off has been the almost complete absence of serious photographers. Other than the handful of regular locals, the out of town shooter has been a rare sighting this year, outside of the triple crown. Just a hand full of them and many days at Pipe and Backdoor with no water photographers. yeah, you heard me correctly. NO water photographers. Those days are back again.

Buttons Brew Coffee
Buttons Brew Coffee

North shore surf legend; Buttons released his own Coffee brand called Buttons Brew and by all accounts, it's a mean cuppa Joe.

Mick Fanning at Backdoor, November
Mick Fanning at Backdoor, November

2009 world champ  Mick Fanning
2009 world champ  Mick Fanning

Aussies pretty much did a clean sweep of the Triple Crown this year along with Mick Fanning piping his best mate Joel Parkinson for the world title.

2009 runner-up; Joel Parkinson
2009 runner-up; Joel Parkinson

The Eddie Aikau was an amazing event this year with even bigger surf preceding it on the day prior. The whole area had like a rock festival vibe to it for like 3 or 4 days there in early December.

Eddie Aikau memorial paddle out.
Eddie Aikau memorial paddle out.

You'd be driving along at 4 Am trying to find parking and there's all manner of people wandering around in the dark, such was the determination of folks to get here early and secure themselves a parking spot.

Huge Waimea in the predawn light.
Huge Waimea in the predawn light.

Hawaiian north shore local; Kala Alexander at Waimea in the pre dawn light.
Hawaiian north shore local; Kala Alexander at Waimea in the pre dawn light.

I even saw folks sleeping on the road between cars. I saw so many big wave legends on the beach one morning.

Tommy Carroll and Michael are good friends.
Tommy Carroll and Michael are good friends.

One of them; Tommy Carroll enjoyed dozens of waves over the 2 days leading up to the Eddie, only to screw his ankle up on a wipeout at the Bay.

There were so many epic moments in and outside of the Eddie Aikau surfing contest. Kelly got barreled twice that I know of.

Kelly Slater looking to get deep at the Eddie.
Kelly Slater looking to get deep at the Eddie.

Numerous waves closed the bay out.

A close out set at Waimea Bay, the day before the Eddie.
A close out set at Waimea Bay, the day before the Eddie.

Some legit 30 footers were ridden and it was probably the biggest that the bays ever been ridden, the afternoon before the Eddie went. Yeah, it was actually bigger.

I'd like to put the word out to all our readers here in Hawaii, to pitch in a hand financially if you can and help young Kehau Sullivan, the youngest of Pancho Sullivan's 3 children.

Kehau Sullivan
Kehau Sullivan

Many of you will be familiar with Pancho Sullivan as a Hawaiian on the World Championship surfing Tour and general all round nice guy and family man. Kehau was born with a heart defect and will require a series of operations on her heart as she grows older. even though Pancho had what he thought was excellent insurance, the costs are massive, so we are asking for anyone who would like to help out Pancho's family, to go to the Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Friends-of-Kehau-Sullivan/182872574919?ref=search&sid=669375451.1047917501..1  The Sullivan family very much appreciates all the help that they have been receiving.

Kehau Sullivan
Kehau Sullivan

I've also printed and made this historic image of Huge Waimea from the recent big swell, available as a limited edition print of only 100 pieces.

"Waimea Mountain"   Available as a limited edition print of only 100 prints.
"Waimea Mountain"   Available as a limited edition print of only 100 prints.

I am donating 50% of all proceeds on this image straight to Kehau Sullivan's fund. I chose this image for Kehau simply because it's one of my very favorite recent images. All inquiries for this limited edition print, please direct to fineart@seandavey.com. Thank you.

As I'm writing this, we have a huge but messed up swell happening, but 2 even bigger ones approaching in a couple of days time.

Then we have the North Shore Tow In championships happening any day now and also the Backdoor Shootout, which is currently on hold till it gets small enough to run, which will then be followed by the Volcom Pipe contest, so it's bound to be an amazing ongoing season.

Enjoy and Aloha. If you want any of these images as prints, please send an email to fineart@seandavey.com

Beautiful afternoon light at Ehukai beach park.
Beautiful afternoon light at Ehukai beach park.

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