Surf spots are overcrowded and getting more crowded by the day … not exactly breaking news.  For all kinds of reasons (and many of them not the right ones), surfing’s popularity is growing rapidly, and the increasingly cramped quarters are accompanied by reckless behavior, frayed tempers, and the occasional flying fist.

In the eternal search for relief, nearly every corner of our island chain has been scoured for rideable waves and aside from the most remote spots, every accessible break is packed to the gills with surfers who aren’t exactly in the mood to share anything with you. The crowd situation at any in-season Oahu surf spot can fluctuate between ridiculous and insane; Waimea Bay, Pipeline, Rocky Point, Ala Moana Bowls, Queens, and Makaha being prime examples..  If you’re not firmly entrenched at or near the top of the pecking order at these places, you can forget about snagging a set wave to yourself.  If you’re intuitive and savvy enough at working yourself outside, inside, around, and through the madness, you can luck into a couple good ones and make a decent session of it.  But for the most part it’s a jaw-clenching dogfight from start to finish. 

As if the massive power and danger of big Waimea Bay wasn’t enough already, overcrowding has ratcheted up the terror scale even further.  (Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiianswell.com)

In the 80’s, the resurgence of the modern longboard created resentment from the shortboard crew because of the (unfair) wave catching advantage that the extra length and flotation provided their riders.  Unapologetic greediness didn’t help the situation at all.  Twenty some odd years later, a bit of poetic justice is being served as the longboard crew is now being outsized and outfloated by the new prevalence of stand up paddle surfers, and it is now the longboarders who are in turn resentful.  Again, greed plays a role in the growing animosity. But hey, you know what they say about payback. In addition to these subgroups, shovel in bodyboarders, bodysurfers, kite boarders, waveskis, windsurfers, and the tow-in gang and you’ve got live combat on your hands.

Someone’s taken off before and inside of you … be good, kick out, and go get your own out the back! (Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiianswell.com)

I’ve frequented my favorite break since 1976.  I’d trip in those early days because it was right next to one of the most crowded breaks on Oahu, and yet the place was so empty that I’d have to go looking for friends to come surf it with me. But that was then, and now it’s jammed packed and thick with animosity.  A few months back, I’d been waiting my turn patiently out there and began paddling for an outside set wave that had swung wide of the pack.  A young guy who was paddling back out, saw it too and he tried scrambling inside and in front of me, purposely kicking water in my face to get me off the wave.  I wound up picking it up well outside him anyway, and he stood, bumping my rail and yelling something at me from behind.  We both made it to the bottom about three inches apart, and I dusted him on my first turn.  I giggled to myself and rode what turned out to be one of the better and longer waves that morning.  It took me awhile to paddle back out and I’d already forgotten what about it.  When I got outside and sat up, he and his teenybopper posse circled me and began spouting off, saying, “Eh dis not town Brah!” and “Try show respeck ah Brah!” and “No steel adda people’s waves Brah!”  I calmly smiled and said,” Eh I agree, only everything you’re saying applies more to him than me … BRAH!”  On the deck of my board, I diagrammed the mechanics of their boy’s attempted snake job in a football X’s and O’s presentation. They looked at each other in bewilderment, looked back at me in a kind of silent resignation, and then with a collective “grrrr”, paddled down the beach as a group.  A friend had stroked his way over to back me up, but I waved him off knowing the situation would be quickly defused.  Everyone within earshot chuckled and we all had a really fun session after they left. I’d like to think that they eventually understood their blunder and learned at least a small bit of standard surf etiquette that day. 

The ubiquitous burn job illustrated here at Pipeline.  This is kind of tactic can cause severe injury and conflict. (Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiianswell.com)

Another time in town, I’d taken my 10 year old son, who was just learning to surf, out in 1’ mushy waves.   Because it was during the winter offseason, there were mostly novices out that morning, but all were happily sharing the tiny waves and the glee of a beginner’s stoke.  Everything was going fine, until I pushed my son into a crumbly little wall that an older local girl was also riding.   I watched as she did a few pump turns to catch up to my son, swore loudly, and then did a wild and intentional fly away kick out, her surfboard missing his head by inches.  It was an obvious effort to intimidate and maybe even a deliberate attempt to injure him.  I paddled right up on top of her and we really got into it. She looked like a druggie type, her bulging, bloodshot eyes filled with a kind of maniacal rage, just totally PO’d at life and people, screaming at me and my young son who had absolutely no idea what was going on (thankfully).  She just couldn’t bear to share an infinitely forgettable half foot wave with a little boy who was learning to surf and decided she needed to teach him a good stiff lesson by shooting a 10’ surfboard at him. I can’t express here the terrible things I wanted to do to her, and I left the beach shaken but very grateful my son wasn’t hurt over such a stupid and juvenile thing.  In hindsight, I should have called the police, so she couldn’t do it to anyone else, let alone another child.  What a nutcase!

If they choose to do so, stand up paddlers can dominate any surf spot singlehandedly … but should they? (Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiianswell.com)

I’ve been in my fair share of verbal exchanges in the water, but fortunately never had to throw a punch or had one thrown at me in 35 years of surfing.  I’ve seen surfers do a lot of outrageous things to each other over a wave; shooting their boards, blatant runovers, throwing rocks, fin jabs, attempted drownings, hair pulling, vandalizing cars, and more bites, slaps, kicks and punches than I care to count.  I once saw a guy get beaten and bloodied up for riding BEHIND someone! Although the wave was clearly his, he was cool enough to share it with some hostile drop-in punk, and then got punched out for his generosity. At my own peril, I broke it up and helped the poor guy in.  Incidents like these are the dark and shameful underbelly of surfing that we’d rather you not see or hear about. 

Get used to it, because it’s only going to get worse.  There are rewards for patience, politeness, and persistence.  (Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiianswell.com)

They’re even dropping in from the sky these days!  An unwelcomed stunt parachutist shoulderhopping at Makaha.  (Photo: Hawaiianswell.com)

Admittedly, I’d been the occasional but royal wavehog as a youngster, no doubt.  I’d had my greedy days early on where I felt like I had something to prove and didn’t want anybody else having fun but me.  I’d take every wave I could and dropped in on other surfers many times. But as I’ve gotten older (don’t get me started on that subject again), I’ve recognized the fault and stupidity in my actions and I feel much remorse for it.  I don’t know or understand that person I used to be, and I now honor the sport too much to behave like that anymore.  I’ve been at it a long time and have caught a million great waves already. Don’t get me wrong, I still want to get as many as I can because it’s just good for me on so many fronts, but I’ve mellowed and am much more willing to be part of the solution, not the problem.  Here are a few strategies I use that help me cope with crowded lineups and to maximize water time.  Maybe they can help you;

LOWER YOUR EXPECTATIONS – It’s all about being realistic. Unless you’re a Level A Pro-Joe, don’t expect or force an exceptionally high wave count on yourself (and others).  In this day and age, it’s very difficult to get a perfect wave, let alone one to yourself.  Don’t get all pee’d off if you don’t and just be happy that you’re out surfing. Enjoy the waves you do get for what they offer.

ALLOW YOURSELF TIME – In today’s speedfreak, overscheduled world, dedicated surf time can be painfully rare.  But when possible, schedule enough of it so that you don’t have to rush to catch waves.  At an absolute minimum, you want at least an hour of actual water time (not counting drive time), no less. Nothing’s worse than having to furiously scratch around the lineup to cobble up a few decent rides.  This forces you to be frenetic, selfish, annoying, and dangerous to yourself and others. Prepare your equipment and incidentals the day/night before, not the day of. Choose and install your fins, wax your board, check your leash, etc. When you’re already short on time, don’t waste anymore time getting coffee, gassing up your car, talking story with da boys on the beach, playing around with your iPhone, or whatever.  Park, grab your board, and hit the water!

PAY YOUR DUES - Assemble a mental list of 3 or 4 of your favorite surf spots, and surf them regularly on both good and bad days.  Make sure your spot choices are realistic and match your skill level.  Become a familiar and credible face in the lineup, surf the waves you get competently, and create a quiet presence for yourself in the pecking order.  Catch the waves you paddle for, and don’t blow them when you do. Otherwise, you’ll be shown the exit door very quickly. 

EASE IN - Typically, surfers will want to enter the lineup, catch a few quick ones right off the bat and get into a rhythm.  That’s perfectly understandable.  But you really shouldn’t come charging in just in time to pick off that beautiful set wave that other surfers may have waiting a long time for.  That’ll either incite bad vibes or further exacerbate ones that already existed. Be patient and chill, you’ll get yours eventually.

GIVE RESPECT - If you’re new to a spot, respect the guys you know who’ve put in the time there, and take what you can get without getting in the way.

MAKE FRIENDS – You don’t have to be all Miss Congeniality or anything, but get to know some of the regulars out there, particularly those you always see there or at other breaks.  Be sincere and not a suck-up.  I’ve become friendly with a lot of guys (and gals) just from us bumping into each other over the years.  Strangely, we’ve never introduced ourselves formally, even just to get a first name, but we’re friends nonetheless.  Compliment other surfers if they get a good wave or ask them about their equipment.  Often, it can lead to regular conversation and a new ally in the water.

BE HUMBLE – Don’t paddle out with a big ol’ chip on your shoulder.  If you’re a hot surfer, others will know it by your performance, so you don’t need to carry yourself like you’re “all that”.  I’ve always highly respected other surfers who’re low key and let their great surfing do their talking.  Nothing’s more annoying to others than some boorish attention-seeking lout in the water.  Nine times out of ten, they’re not even half as good as they think they are anyway.  Accept compliments from others when you get a good wave, but be modest. 

LEARN TO SHARE - You’re having a humdinger of a session, you’ve caught a bunch of good waves, and ripping the snot out of them.  You feel like you can’t put a foot wrong and have your pick of just about any wave that comes through.  Stop and catch yourself here. If you have an advantage over the crowd (skill or equipment wise), don’t abuse it. Ease off the throttle a bit and let a few decent ones go by so others can surf them too.    If enough people see you giving waves, they’re more inclined to give you one too, and hopefully it rubs off on other surfers in the water, increasing the stoke level for everyone.  If someone’s taking too many waves, and you don’t think you’ll get beaten up for saying something, maybe ask them politely to give others a chance.

APOLOGIZE & THANK – It can be hard, but do the right thing and apologize if you dropped in (inadvertently or not), gotten in a rider’s way, or think you may have hit or closely buzzed a paddler.  I’ve apologized to guys I taken off on and told them the next wave was theirs if we were both in position for it. Your apology doesn’t necessarily have to be an admission of guilt, but your display of maturity can calm a situation considerably.  I always take the time to acknowledge and thank others for backing off on a wave they very easily could have hassled me for.  Some of them are now good friends and we trade off all the time.

LET IT GO – OK, so you’re getting skunked for waves, you’re completely out of rhythm, and your surfing just plain sucks that day.  You’re going to get snaked, people are going to get in the way, and you’re going to blow a few waves, period.  It happens to every surfer at every skill level, there’s no way around that.  Instead of wasting energy getting all upset, better to let the anger go, and focus on the next wave because there always will be one.  If you must say something, take a good deep breath first.  Explain calmly why what they did wasn’t right, and assure them you wouldn’t have done the same to them.  Sometimes you can shame someone into wising up a little.  If it persists and you feel like you may snap, just leave, be the bigger person.  Paddle over to the next reef, or just chuck it in and live to surf another day.

CHANGE THINGS UP – Create your own fun when the waves are junk, or they’re really good and you’re just getting junk ones.  When this is the case, I try to get creative (and maybe a little silly).  I’ll do a “lookback” at the lip line as it forms and cascades behind me, I’ll lightly touch the face with a finger or two and feel them skip across it, I’ll actually listen to the wave, or try to ride switchfoot all day, maybe experiment with weird fin setups.  I’ll take off on a close out, slide off the rail and bodysurf the barrel, or do an arbitrary kickstall to see how much water I can fan out across the face. I’ll kneeboard or ride prone, or just trim across the face in a low, fixed utility crouch, and soak in the amazing interplay of water and energy moving over and across the ocean bottom.  Playful, subtle, but rewarding stuff like that can quickly transform a frustrating session into a surprisingly satisfying one. 

AVOID CROWDS, DUH – Don’t insist on stuffing yourself into a notoriously and already crowded surf spot.  Surf other places that aren’t as highly desired as the 5-Diamond spots you’ve been daydreaming about all week.  Maybe try surfing the other side of the peak, go right at established lefthanders and vice versa. Surf at the crack of dawn or in the late evening just before the green flash.  Do anything to eliminate high traffic situations from your surf time.

APPRECIATE, APPRECIATE, APPRECIATE – The physical incidence and gift of every breaking wave is momentous and fleeting, and surfers very often take this for granted.  Value and regard every wave, they’re one of the few renewable energy sources we don’t have to pay for, and every surfer is entitled to tap into it.  Value and maximize every wave you get, let others get theirs, extend and receive respect, share good vibes and some badly needed Aloha in the water.  We are so lucky to be surfers, and we’re all obligated to give back to the sport.

Having to ride waves with other people is inevitable.  Recognize it and share the surf with Aloha. (Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiianswell.com)

It’s funny.  Surfers are a strange, contradictory bunch; they defend the legitimacy of their sport and culture like rabid dogs against non-surfing folk who view it as a silly juvenile waste of time.  And then they’ll turn right around, paddle out and bite, spit, and growl at each other like … well, rabid dogs.  Sure, most of the time “you gotta do what you gotta do” to get your share, and if there’s some hater knucklehead out there just looking for a fight, you may be forced into a confrontation.  And I’m not suggesting you become so over-submissive as to become a major pushover in the water, but the worm must turn sometime because there are only so many waves to go around.  If everyone’s halfway civil, being friendly, and sharing waves, the experience improves 1000%.  I’ve been out on days like that, and they were pure gold.  In the 1988 surf film “Surfers: The Movie”, there’s a classic quote in the movie’s closing segment from a legendary North Shore surfer, who’s known for getting more than his fair share of waves, "Instead of always taking waves, taking waves, taking waves … give a wave, meet a friend.  You never know, they may have a good looking sister!”

This article is dedicated to the memory of my dear friend Thomas Shimooka Jr., a gentle soul and good surfer who passed recently.  Catch one up there for me Tommy Boy, I love and miss you my brother.

Mahalo to Franco Tramontano of Hawaiianswell for the terrific photos! 

Link: www.hawaiianswell.com